Hello All, This is related to my other post about the fuse box. The engine will not turn over. I tested the starter solenoid with a multi-meter. With everything hooked up I am getting voltage on the battery side of the solenoid. With the key tuned all the way in the ignition I am getting voltage at the S & I terminals. But on the starter side of the solenoid I am getting no voltage with or without the key turned in the ignition. Where do I go from here? What may this be telling me? Thanks!!!
Assuming the battery is OK your tests aren't going to tell you much. Referring to diagram, remove the S & I connections, if there is voltage on either terminal, solenoid is kaput. With ignition on, there should be voltage on the I terminal (usually brown wire). When in START position, the S terminal (RED/BLUE) receives voltage. Voltage on S terminal activates solenoid.
nice diagram to keep it simple . ... 'believe explanation of "I" terminal should say: ... when in START should be voltage on 'I " terminal . "I" terminal provides coil full 12V (B+) on START instead of resistance wire/ballast etc. ('pink wire') .
Gonna make me 'splain this thing huh? True but when ign is on and all is connected, voltage is fed through the resistor to I terminal (No, I terminal is not supplying any voltage). Unless points are closed reading will be 12v. In start, contacts inside solenoid close supplying full battery voltage to I terminal. Generally, 10v-11v due to sag in voltage from starter current draw. For a small amount of wiring, there's a lot goin' on...
What I have been seeing on Youtube is there should be the same 12 volts on the starter terminal as the battery terminal when the ignition is on. I am not getting any voltage at the starter terminal. Wouldn't that mean the solenoid is not sending the voltage thru to the starter. If I was getting voltage there I assume the starter would engage.
I believe that is what I did. I had my wife move the key in the ignition like she was trying to start the car. No voltage at the starter terminal. Doing the same I had 9 volts on the S terminal and 12 volts on the I terminal. 12 volts were on battery terminal to begin with.
Solenoid is bad, some times you can even buy a new solenoid that is bad. Do you hear the solenoid click when key switch is turned to start position ?
No clicking or any sound at all when trying to start car. I will change the solenoid again. This will be the 4th one this week. If it tuns out this is the issue the solenoids you buy nowadays really suck. Are there any quality products out there???
Ford' better idea wasn't making starter field coil pull the gear in/out of the FW. . Ford starting setup will act weird if battery or connections are at all not seriously intact. . ... IF battery is OK, an old pair of pliers-handles jumped across Solenoid's Batt' lug to the Starter lug will verify starter integrity and starter circuit wiring is intact and should crank until pliers heat up , (while jumping batt' from a known good batt' w/ car running is best.). If nothing happens or just sparks - Batt or Starter or Conn's = NFG aside from Solenoid wiring. . starter if in question can be tested after removal with jumper cables from a known good batt' while held from torque spinning it - under your foot ... . have fun . .
At what point are you going to stop firing the parts cannon and start (learn) how to troubleshoot????? There's more than enough info in the posts above to determine the problem...
If you change the starter relay and it starts working have one of the car parts places check the current draw of the starter motor. Could be drawing excessive current and burning out the relays.
