Suggestions for starter/alternator replacemtent

I was in the process of removing my alternator and voltage regulator, so that I could swap to a one-wire, or a non-one-wire converted to a "one-wire" as AndySutt did.

Then I broke my starter solenoid, snapped the starter post right off.

So, would I be better off at this point swapping out the starter anyway, with one with a built in solenoid (or do they make them for Fords?) or just continue with my one-wire swap and put in a replacement solenoid?

Also, did we ever determine a cheap alternator with the built in voltage regulator? Doesn't have to be fancy or powerful...65 amps is plenty, and it doesn't need to be chrome. If it will cost me $165 from Autozone, I will do the chrome one from JEGS, but it doesn't necessarily have to be that one. I will even junk yard dive for a core if I need to (will see if it works first).

 

Autozone carries the Mini Hi-Torque starter used in '91-'95 5.0 Mustangs. They're relatively cheap - they 'might' take your old starter as a core. This starter is much narrower than stock (header clearance) and has a lot more torque. It also has the built-in solenoid (somebody please correct me if I'm wrong).

I dunno about the alternator.

 

You still need the starter solenoid mounted on the fender apron.At least I did when I put mine on.I followed the instructions that came with the starter.The solenoid is really just a relay switch which is activated by the ignition.When you turn the key to start it closes the relay(solenoid)and sends full power to the starter.That in turn activates the solenoid mounted on the starter,which engages the starter motor.The main power wire going to the new starter gets moved to the battery side of your existing solenoid.The power wire to the new solenoid goes on the post that originally had the starter power wire on it.That is why they work better.Less electrical resistance(or loss)to the starter motor.That and it is an improved design motor.The Bendix design that came on our cars is or was adequate for the time,but these work so much better,especially if you have a little higher compression ratio.Hope I didn't confuse you.

 

Check out http://www.dbelectrical.com ordered a starter from them last week looks good also has alternators. Good prices and real quick shipping.

 

I'm not sure if all of them with the solenoid on the starter still have the fender solenoid, but I know my 99 F 150 does. Had to replace both at the same time last year.

 

I will call that DB place tomorrrow. Might solve both my problems?

Rick, that starter gave you problems, didn't or was that due to swapping something else out...I thought you said you had some mis-alligned teeth (like those "Bubba Teeth" you can buy from the gas stations )

 

starters are pretty cheap. i use a stock one on the race car. i think there's a smaller one that fits the mustang that you can use. somebody can tell you which one or do a search. as far as the alternator i'd go for the 1 wire that summit has or jegs (100 amp) or you'll be buying another to upgrade later anyway.

 

the 100 amp jegs one-wire costs less than buying anything with an internal regulator locally...they want 169+50-80 core. So I might just do the jegs.

Recommend the 50 amp fuse and block while I am at it?

 

isnt a 100 amp an over kill?

i suppose with mine.. i only need a 75 amp.. or somethign better than the stock one i have,., which i think is a 55amp.. i dont even have a stereo in my mav.. so i bet i dont even need a high amp alternator

 

Ha! No Bubba teeth on the starter. The failure mode is the teeth on the flexplate getting stripped. I do not know the root cause (yet). I can rule out the starter as that is the second one and other friends of mine have the same setup with that starter, 302 block, and a C4. I think my problem lies in the Block Plate. It originally had a Block Plate - cranked fine. Then the starter began slipping on the teet of the flexplate. I later found out the flange on the bellhousing was broken (where the starter mounts at the top) and was allowing the starter to move away (disengage) from the flexplate. The bellhousing was changed out and a thicker Block Plate was installed with the new bellhousing (why? I do not know). It cranked fine for a little while then eventually got worse. My buddy (the one that you want to overhaul your C4) is coming to the get the Maverick. He's going to fix that problem along with fabbing a Shock Tower Brace and re-weld the roll bar.

Back on topic, the starter I speak of is a great, strong little starter (along with others out there).

 

I don't know...IS 100 amps overkill? My current is 55amps, and dims the lights when turn signals are on, etc. But I don't know how much of that is the 35 year old alternator, and how much is just too much electronics (lights, but none on dash, electric radiator fan, and electric fuel pump...that is about it!).

I was thinking 60, but then saw today that my stock is 55, and am wondering if I might need the 100 when I put in the 12" sub and 500w amp, etc.

Like Don says, I would probably be upgrading later.

What happens to the unused 40 amps? Does the alternator recognize it isn't needed and only produce what is required? Or does it just keep pushing it at the battery?

PS--I have to make a decision soon, since I have the alternator, regulator, and wiring harness on the garage floor, and don't plan on putting them back in...unless a nice cool race night arrives and I have to hot-wire it back in

 

A year or two from now you'll be glad you got the bigger alternator. The 100 amps is the capability of the alternator, not what it supplies constantly. The output is determined by the load you connect to it. I got an 80 amp, powder coated 1-wire from Summit for $100.

 

Napa Sells 1 Wire Alt Part# 13-4011sw

 

That NAPA part is 63 amp 1-wire, reman part for $65+18 core. In stock.

That is a pretty good price, and shipping price is even better (I guess I have to look at the $18 core as "shipping" since I doubt they will take my old alt as a core return ).

 

I think you'll be happier if you go with a bigger one Scott. More important than the max current is how much current it puts out at idle, when you are sitting at a light with your electric fan turned on and the radio going, with the headlights on if it's dark, the blower on if it is hot....