Suggestions on my floor

Discussion in 'Cosmetic' started by Cometgt_71, Apr 20, 2011.

  1. Cometgt_71

    Cometgt_71 Member

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    Hello all, I recently received the new carpet I ordered, so I began the job. The seats, carpet, and old sound insulation has been removed. I have included a few pictures to show you the condition of the floor; not bad! It still needs attention of course. I will remove the rust with a wire wheel and sanding disks.
    I was wondering what some people have used to stop the remaining rust, in between the seams etc. I have eastwood's rust converter and rust encapsulator. Are there any better suggestions? Also has anyone redone the seem sealer after applying something like what I have mentioned.
    Almost done now. I ordered the mass backing on my carpet, so will that suffice, or should I put on some peal and seal or some other similar product. Hope I didn't loose anyone with that long post.:)
     

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  2. Dave B

    Dave B I like Mavericks!

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    Look up under your dash, and see if the cowls are leaking....the Eastwood stuff will work fine.
     
  3. don graham

    don graham MCG State Rep

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    Wish mine looked that good. I just took it over tp have the floorboards replaced. Alsoo the trunk and some other stuff.:)
     
  4. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    The eastwood products work very well. I would do some pokeing and prodding to see how strong the steel is...The rust you cant touch (between the seams where the sheet metal is butted together) would bother me. It will come back unless you get rid of it. Getting rust converter to flow into the seam is a hit or miss proposition. It probably wont reach all the rust in there.The encapsulator wont cover it in the seam either. It will cure the surface rust you cant remove after grinding/sanding since it will contact it directly though. You may find that your going to be replaceing some steel after you grind it all down. Replace seam sealer after final primer coat or paint.
    3M makes a good brushable seam sealer as well as Eastwood...Good luck!!!

    like Dave said... Check your cowls/windshield weatherstripping for leaks.
     
  5. injectedmav

    injectedmav Member

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    neutralizing the rust is definitely the trick. where the metal is welded together and overlaps is a concern, but if you remove all of the flaky stuff, the rest should neutralize with the converter if you are able to verify it afterward. The eastwood stuff works well as does the stuff POR15 sells. You have to make sure moisture can't get back in between the sheets of metal, or it will return. Treat it, coat it and then seam seal it. I personally like the seam sealer applied from the gun so you can force it into cracks and crevices.
     
  6. 19Grabber72

    19Grabber72 Member

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    "neutralizing the rust is definitely the trick. where the metal is welded together and overlaps is a concern, but if you remove all of the flaky stuff, the rest should neutralize with the converter if you are able to verify it afterward. The eastwood stuff works well as does the stuff POR15 sells. You have to make sure moisture can't get back in between the sheets of metal, or it will return. Treat it, coat it and then seam seal it. I personally like the seam sealer applied from the gun so you can force it into cracks and crevices."

    Thats what I did too. Then I hit it with undercoating for sound and seal and am now applying peel n seal to get it down some more. Good for the trunk too, though Im not doing peel n seal there.
     
  7. Cometgt_71

    Cometgt_71 Member

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    Finished my floor finally. Here are some pictures after the rust is cleaned up, and then after the carpet is down.
     

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