So I got my exhaust fixed and now I can hear all sorts of little mechanical issues in my block. And I'm losing oil a tad faster than I should be. I think its the beginning of a leak, but I can't find it. Also getting a puff of smoke when I start up that is I'm thinking mostly rich fuel conditions but might be a little oil burn too. So I'm thinking of cutting my losses on the old stock motor and swapping in this 302 I pulled out of my Bronco. What are the absolute minimum things I need to do to this engine before swapping it in. Also, I'm not going to use the fuel injection, and if I try to buy a new carb right now my wife will kill me, so what is a decent aftermarket 2 barrel intake so I keep my current carb which I love anyway. So ditching fuel injection, want to use my 2 barrel carb. What do I need to buy to do this.
Either an electric fuel pump or change the timing cover and add the eccentric for the mechanical pump, steel gear on your distributor for the roller cam (if its a roller). Flywheel and crank damper need to match the engine imbalance and your pulleys. Plug the thermactor holes in the back of the heads. I'm sure someone will catch what I missed, but that's what I got off the top of my head.
I should maybe add that the donor truck was a manual transmission and t-case, and my car is also a manual transmission, and I have no power anything. So I don't need to swap any pulleys to make anything match. I'm just going to put on a shorter belt to cover the idler pulley, fan/water pump, and alternator just like it is on my current engine. So other than the part where I need an electric fuel pump I'm lost after that in your post. I don't know what any of that other stuff means. I'm a good industrial mechanic, and I can fake my way around the car pretty good, but the specific names like crank damper? are lost on me. Plugging the thermactor holes, is that like blocking off the EGR ports?
The thermactor holes are the ones in the back of the heads on your Bronco that attach to the air pump. There is a pipe that goes from head to head and has a center Y connection that has a check valve on the end that connects to a hose assembly running to the air pump. There are threaded holes in the heads that are connected to the exhaust ports so if you don't plug them, you'll have an exhaust leak. Ford offers these plugs but they are expensive compared to what some members here have done. Do a search and see what you find. The damper is just the harmonic balancer.
So I need to get like the stuff found on this site? http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/egr-eliminators specifically http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/egr-eliminators/products/thermactor-smog-plugs
Those will do. I have also seen a couple of guys cut down a bolt from a hardware store. I don't know the thread size at the moment. I wrote it down an put it somewhere I wouldn't forget... You'll be changing the intake so none of the egr stuff applies, if you haven't figured that out already.
You will have to swap some accessories to make it work. Your Bronco has a reverse rotation waterpump and timing cover. You'll either have to figure out how to use the Bronco stuff and get a reverse rotation fan, or swap everything from the timing cover forward from your Mav/Comet 302. To do this, you'll need to remove the timing cover locating dowels from the Bronco block then use a tool to center the front seal of the Mav/Comet (don't recall which you have here) to the Bronco crank. Next you'll need a 50 oz/in flywheel to match your transmission's bellhousing. You can use the Bronco balancer with the Mav's pulleys. You will need to plug the dipstick hole in the Bronco's engine block. Then use the Mav oilpan and oilpump pickup tube. If I were you, I'd shop for a good, little used Holley 570 or 600 cfm 4 bbl and a Stealth or RPM intake to top it. Or go with your 2 bbl, your choice.For a cheap low buck 2 bbl intake, the early 80's 5.0 2bbl intake is hard to beat, these are the same castings as the earlier ones, but they're aluminum instead. Now, while the Bronco engine is out of the vehicle, get a porting bit and a drill and take 30 minutes to grind out the Thermactor bumps from the E7's exhaust ports. Also recommend changing the Bronco's roller cam to either an HO or F4TE roller, or any other roller, ANYTHING will be better than the cam in it now, which is probably the smallest hyd roller ever used in anything. The cam lift is ..379/.403 and the advertised duration is 244/256 with a 107.5 LSA. The HO roller is .445/.445 duration is 276/266, The F4TE is a hair less with .422/.445 duration is 256/266. The F4TE can be found in any 94-97 5.0/5.8 in the trucks and vans, plus the 96-2001 Explorer/Mountaineer 5.0 It's the best cam I've ever used for a daily driver with a carb. Even better with a set of full roller 1.7 rockers to boost the lift to .445/.473 Smooth idle, good fuel economy even without an OD transmission.
The Thermactor holes in the back of the heads will likely be carbon fouled. To screw the plugs in, that stuff will need to be cleaned out. The thread size is 5/8NC if I recall, actually there maybe a theaded insert (like those in the front hole in the head (at the other end of the Thermactor passage) with a smaller inside thread size like 7/16.
Lets start at the rear of the engine, if you can't bolt it to the trans nothing else matters... Do you have a clutch assembly on the 5.0??? Any idea what size it is??? This is something you'll need to know because your '74 clutch may not bolt to the '93 flywheel(likely different sizes), and because of different balance, the orig 302 flywheel cannot be used on the 5.0... Is the tooth count same on the flywheels? This is going to dictate what starter you use... Assuming you have the '93 starter, it's different electrically but not a big issue... You'll need to fabricate a bracket for clutch linkage attachment point on the 5.0, as '80s up blocks do not have the threaded boss that the ball threads into... Possibly there is a bracket avail for this that bolts to the bellhousing? Seems I've heard this but never seen one in the flesh... If it has the cross over air injection tube on the back of the heads, the cheap block off is cut the fitting and pinch the open tube closed using a vise and a little additional hammer work... It's fairly thick metal once pinched shut it will remain closed off... Still I'd recommend the use of bolts threaded directly into the heads...
I'm gonna take this slow because I'm getting confused. I have everything from the Bronco, the alt, the fan is still on the motor even. Why do I need to swap any of that? I think I even have the radiator from the Bronco somewhere, but that might have gone to the scrapper with the body. So I should get a new cam kit too? I might wait on that, I still planning on dropping a crate motor in a couple years down the line. I just happen to have a perfectly good motor sitting around, and don't feel like babying an oil burner for the next 2 years. I don't have a very big budget for doing this swap right now.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/equalizer-bar-bracket-engine-side-5-0l/p/CEBBE4/ This is what I need for the clutch linkage right? I have the starter from the bronco as well. So I need to look up the clutch information on the 93 engine and maybe get a conversion bellhousing?
If you use the Mav fan it'll be turning the wrong direction, it'll be a pusher instead of a puller. What I use to do all this is a 1980-91 Crown Vic timing cover (or Lincoln Towncar/Merc Marquis 5.0) and a late 88 to 91 Vic waterpump (aluminum instead of the earlier iron unit) The Vic/Tcar/Marquis 5.0 kept the std rotation waterpump until the end of the 5.0 in 1991. This is what I have on my 331 in the pics linked below. The 1980-91 Vic timing cover uses the block dowels to positively locate the front seal. The earlier covers lack these dowels, so a tool must be used to insure the seal doesn't leak when the cover is mounted off center. You can use the Mav's bellhousing but you'll need a 50 oz/in flywheel to match it (157 tooth I presume, instead of the Bronco's 164) Depending on the flywheel you pick, your pressure plate may not bolt up to the 50oz wheel as KrazyComet pointed out. As you can see, it's not a simple swap, but the benefits outweigh the obstacles (smother running, better fuel economy, roller cammed)
I wasn't planning on using anything from my 74 at all. I have a complete fresh pulled motor with everything still hooked up to it. Even the wiring harness still has half the ECUs dangling off it.
Yep that bracket ought to do it, they are proud of it though... If the flywheels have the same tooth count, hopefully you can reuse your original bell but honestly I dunno... I doubt chances the Bronco bell will work with your trans are very good... About any 302 to 5.0 swap info for a early Stang is going to apply to your Comet...
