Switching to 1 wire alternator

Hello,

I am trying to swith to a 1 wire alternator. The one I bought is a half inch deeper than what I am trying to replace. A qtr inch of the hookup pin on the back is hitting the block and preventing me from rotating the alternator far enough forward to put the belt on.

Can I cut the pin down so it will fit or will it damage the aletrnator charging?

I have a 302 and am using the standard Ford alternator brackets. If anyone has done the same change can you let me know what brand you installed. I'd like to get the specs and see if it will fit my set-up.

Thanks!

 

I using a Summit Racing brand 100 amp one wire alternator with no clearance problem. Can you remove the screws holdind the 2 halfs together and re-clock the housing? Don't pull the housing apart or the brushes will come off the armature...remove the screws and twist the housing with the 2 halfs still making contact with each other.

 

I had the same problems you have described, I ended up putting the new alternator on the other side (drivers) of the engine. I had previously removed the power steering, so I put the alternator where the power steering pump was.

 

rthomas 771,

Do you know the model# of the Summit alternator you are using?

 

I am using a 1 wire unit from: http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=17
I have had it since 3/24/10 works great, bolted right up. It's a 3G small case 130amp V-groove unit. I like it. Only one wire to the battery side of the solenoid.

 

I bought mine when they were $30 cheaper http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-810302/ Here is a black case a little cheaper http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-810304/

 

just thought i'd share some info i found when researching alternators....

all alternators need power to start charging, on a one wire alternator it gets it through that one wire, and will always have a small draw because it's always on.

with a 2/3 wire unit. the alternator actually shuts off, not allowing a draw from it.

this isn't a problem of course if you drive your car often or store it with a battery tender.

I found using a gm style alternator (3 wires) to work well. it doesn't draw and it actually has a voltage sensing wire so if is sees a drop in voltage it will pick up the pace to charge better automatically.

this was info i found out on my 97 mitsubishi eclipse gst, it is a really wierd breed when it comes to alternators, but after a few modifications, i can replace it in about 20 minutes, and am running a 96 saturn sl alternator, which most parts stores have and only cost about 50 bucks if i need one.

on my mav, I'm just using a stock replacement type!


i'f I'm wrong if if someone else has a different theory, please correct me! my info should be accurate because i saw in on the interweb!!!

 

Very interesting info. I never thought abt the 1 wire always being on or drawing a small amt of current. So far I have not had any issues. I do keep it on a tender this time of year and drive it as much as I can, weather permitting. I don't believe the 1 wire will draw any more current than, let's say, radio memory or anything else in modern day cars that have a constant pwr source. I suppose u have to "give something -to get something"; I consider it worth the sacrifice to abandon the regulator clutter on the fenderwell and associated wiring. I now have relays there for elec. cooling fan and aux fusepanel. I appreciate ur input. That's why this form of networking is important - sharing ideas and experiences.

 

RTHOMAS771 - Can you tell me the depth of your alternator casing (front to back, not including pulley & fan)? Also, is the bolt hole 3 inches long?
Thanks!

 

Maybe a one-wire on a computer controlled car might kill a battery. After reading your post I went to start up my Falcon that has a 1-wire alternator and has not been cranked in 13 months. The memory wire going to the stereo was disconnected. The battery wasn't weak at all. It turned the starter like it did the day I parked it. It fired up after grinding the starter long enough to prime the carburetor...then it really did fire up a few minutes later when the fuel line sprung a leak on the hot header. Luckily the garden hose was close by…now who wants to take the blame that my shoes, socks and pants leg got soaking wet.

 

The case is 4-3/16" and the bolt boss is 3" long

 

I am of the opinion, if ur changing/upgrading an alternator and not keeping every thing totally original - the one wire is the only choice for me. I wud'nt consider going back. It wud be like giving up my TV remote control, ain't goin to happen.In fact I still have the reman 55amp unit/ wiring harness and wud give it away for anyone wanting to pay shipping. I shud have posted it in that section - just been negligent.

 

Me too. Only drawback is you need a volt meter to monitor the charging system because no place to hook up the idiot light without getting one of these. http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=LS%2D11

 

The draw would be very minimal depending on the alternator of course, but all one wire alternators use a self exciting circuit to provide power for the field. All it takes is milli-amps or a small magnetic field to get that started.

 

The problem with the one wires is they require a certain RPM to actually begin charging, usually when the motor is idling they are sitting in a neutral state. So knowing this untill a specific RPM is hit by the engine, usually in the 1750 to 2500 rpm range depending on which alternator you get then your car is running completely off of your battery.
I have a buddy who had a 33 ford and he did the 1 wire chebby alternator. He would start it up and let it idle for 10 or 15 min every saturday morning before taking it out and it would always kill the battery(MSD6 big stereo ect ect 80 amp one wire). We chased wiring because he thought it was a bad ground several times, we sent the alternator back once and got a replacement, he finally found out what was wrong searching on the internet and since he understood the basic functionality he never had a problem again..

Here is a good read on the 1 wire versus 3 wire..
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml