Well i got the t-5 in the Comet,the trouble is that the top of the trans hits the tunnel when it is jacked up so that the engine is level.Has anyone else had this problem?I am useing 302 frame stands and new 302 mav block mounts.Everything else fits fine,[headers,scattershield etc..] I just feel the engine should be a little more level.Derek.
Usually, the engine should be tilted down at the back, around 5 degrees, IIRC. This should give you some clearance.
Both mine have hit at the trans cross member above the trans. So I cut the bottom part out and replaced it with 1/8" plate this should give some more clearence without weakining the car. Both cars carbs set flat and I havn't had any issues with Tammy's car mine isn't running yet. If you want I can post a picture of the mod later after I get home.
Since I installed a 3 X 2 carb setup on mine,I used the top of the air cleaner as my determining factor in leveling the engine.When I leveled the air cleaner,it dropped the engine down about 5 degrees in the back.This gave me cleareance in the tunnel for the T-5.I checked my rear axle and it was close to 5 degrees,which put it right on the money with the trans.I had to custom fab a rear trans mount,but that was straight up. I have attached a picture looking at the engine from the side,if you look real close at the valve covers,you can see that they are leaning back about 5 degrees.5 degrees isn't much,and you will have the cleareance without cutting.
I'll put the angle finder on it tonight to see where i'm at.By the way the tri power looks great.Derek.
It really runs well.I bought the Tri-power from Pony Carbs.It has Autolite 2100's instead of Holleys.With the T-5 in 5th and the 3:55 rear gears,as long as I drive responsibly I have gotten 24-26 mpg.If you step on it and bring in all six,well lets just say you better start looking for the next gas station. And it also fits under the stock hood with out any modification.Its close,but it does fit. By the way Derek,are you going to use a cable clutch on your T-5? If you do headers will be a problem.Also,there is an existing hole in the support for the lower control arm that works out perfect when you route your cable.You must enlarge it so the end of the cable will fit thru,but it keeps it out of the way,and lets you align the cable with the bell housing with just a slight curve.Good luck,having the T-5 in my Maverick was worth all the little problems I encountered putting it in.The 2:95 first gear with the 3:55 rear in our light cars gives it just the right feel when you drop the clutch and hit the throttle.(for the street)
I'm not sure how level the enigne needs to be to affect the carb and stuff, but as far as the drive line goes, the only angle you really need to worry about is the one the drive shaft makes with the tranny and the pinion. Too much angle there will give you some bad vibrations. You want the shaft to be with in 1 degree or so of the tranny and the pinion also within 1 degree of straight with the pinion pointing "down" in relation to the drive shaft. I've heard of people putting up to 5 degrees down angle in the pinion to get a better launch and power transfer. I've also heard that dead nuts straight is not good on the U joints, because they don't lubricate if they're not moving, but if they're not moving they don't make any heat either, so I don't know. Just try to get them as straight as possible. I don't think being off a degree or so would be an issue.
drive shaft joints The carbs and or the intake manifold must be level.. If not then it creates problems with fuel bowls and float settings.. In all my years of modified cars, the u-joints must be parralell to each other..If you draw a line through the centre of the front joint and extend that line to the rear bumper, and then draw a line from the centre rear joint towards the front bumper, these lines should be parrell.. it works out that any difference should be 2-41/2 degrees for street use..if not than this is why we get vibrations in the drive train.If you have more than 5 degrees , you can buy 1 degree shims to slide in between the spring and the axle housing to lessen the angle.. Usually shims were available from good spring shops. Don,t know any more if the shims are still available.. Just ask the 4x4 people who have their vehicles altered and you see large angles on the drive shaft . very hard on joints,, This system has worked for me for 40 years and I have never had drive train problems because of out of line u-joints....MHO. RON
I set the rear's pinion down 4* with the car at rest, when torque is applied the rear will "nose up" as the pinion gear tries to climb the ring gear. Under power the u-joints are then parallel.
Yes i'm useing the cable clutch,and it clears the headers well but good tip with the hole in the lower control arm support.The cable i'm useing is a pto cable from the heavy equipment shop i work at,it's a 3000 lb rated cable and we make them there so i can custom fit it to the car,i already test fit everything with the engine on the cherry picker with the headders installed and scattershield.I checked the engine and it is about 5 degrees down in the back so it should be alright and the driveshaft angle looks good too.thanks alot guys.Derek.
The carb must be level. The intake and engine are not. If you look at an intake, the carb mounting surface is machined at an angle to level the carb while keeping the engine angled slightly to the rear.
