Its a torker II cam and intake,performer rpm heads,roller rockers and a holley double pumper 750 to be exact its a 302 when I had got it on the road I try to floor it and it just dies:/ that has to deal with the air/fuel mixture too
Factory timing specs went out the window when the gas formula was changed. You can use them to get in the ball park but you will need to read the spark plugs to know what timing your engine likes. Todays gasoline is nothing like it was 35-40 years ago. To answer your question mine is set at 6* BTC on my factory 250 and 8* on my warm over 289. Like comet416 says...it depends on the cam. Also the the advance curve of the distributor.
750 double pump on a 302 is an awful lot. I would call edelbrock about the timing. I have better luck setting my tiing by ear. i run my eng. up to about 2500 rpm advance the timing until i get a little popping out the exhaust then reatrd the distributer a little. shut the eng down and make sure it doesnt buck when you start it.
The 302 needs a total of 34 - 36 degrees of total advance (not counting the vacuum advance). The only way to set the timing is to either know what is in the distributor for advance or set your timing the first time with the engine running at 3500 rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected (while you set the timing) to 34 degrees. Then check it at an idle to find out where the timing is. After that just set the timing where you found it at an idle when the total advance is 34 at 3500. You may find that it is anywhere between 4 and 12 degrees but where ever it is at an idle you are sure it is at 34 total.
Well its at 10 degrees right now and we messed with the carb so it can stay on and haha yeah I think its way to big but my bro in law let me borrow it,I got a 600 cfm edelbrock carb too but the 750 made a difference in stay idl and everything I'm gonna switch it tomorrow and drive it and floor it to see what happens then...
Ok so I switched back to the 600carb and its sounds alright but when I floor it coughs thendies out on me:/
all I messed with is the 2knobs on the front of the carb which should be the air and fuel,any tips on that's??
the best way i have found to adjust the idle mixture screws is with a vacuum gage. hook the gage up to a manifold vacuum port. screw the adjustment screws all the way till they are seated. do not tighten them, just till they touch the bottom of the hole. now back each one out 1.5 turns. start the motor. adjust the idle speed screw (the one that pushes on the throttle lever) to your desired idle speed (somewhere arounde 650-900 rpm). now pay attention to the vacuum gage. make a 1/2 turn adjustment on one of the idle mixture screws. if the vacuum level increases then thats good and you will want to turn the other screw the same way the same amount. if it goes down then you need to go the opisite direction. when any adjustment makes the vacuum drop down you have found the ideal idle mixture. your rpm may have risen, readjust it back to where you want it and try turning the mixture screws again to see if it needs adjustment.
When adjusting those two knobs in the front of the carb (IDLE AIR/FUEL MIXTURE) it is important to start with both needles gently seated and then adjust them equally to the best vacuum level or idle RPM plus 1/4 turn rich. Start by seating the needles GENTLY and back them out 1 1/2 turns on a Holley or 2 turns on a Ford carb.
