Tools needed to ALMOST remove exhaust Manifold

I decided to remove my manifold today and get ready for the header that should be back from being ceramic coating Monday. The manifold is still stuck to the head. I’m guessing the 3 bolts that the heads snapped off is rusted to the manifold. I got PB Blaster soaking them along with some Ford Rust Penetrant/Inhibitor tonight. What you don’t see in the picture is the fan belt removed to swing the alternator out of the way to get to the upper bolt, the upper radiator hose removed from the thermostat housing and heater hose to get to the ported vacuum switch manifold to swing it out of the way to get to the lower bolt. Trouble light to see in dark places was also in use

 

What is the process of ceramic coating, and price?

 

If you're talking about your 250, I feel your pain! I worked at mine for 2 days and even with an oxy/acetylene torch, managed to break the ear off of the head in the front! I finally got it off, but was sick about the broken head ear! I finally got everything back together and just used a bolt and nut on the front with the broken piece sandwiched in place. It worked great and no more racket from a cracked manifold! I really wanted to get a header, but choked when I saw the price!

 

I don't know the process. They said something about burnning off the old coating and then coating it inside and out. The cost suppose to be $35 to prep and $165 to coat. Here is the companies website http://www.headercoatings.com/ I'm getting the PerformaChrome color. Here's the before pic...will post the after pic when I bring it home.

 

The center manifold bolt heads, #2 top, #4 top, #5 bottom, snapped on mine. The strange part was I wasn't really laying down on them when they broke. I heard the head ears are easy to break

 

Im also installing a header on mine ironicly enough, im going to ceramic coat mine at work

 

I got the exhaust manifold off. Had to remove the carb and vacuum tree to wedge a screwdriver between the manifold and head to wiggle it free. I will need to buy a stud remover and hope I have enough threads for the tool to grab.

 

What you need is a oxy-acceletine torch to heat up the surrounding metal. Then they will back right out with a pair of channel locks.

 

... a can of paint...

 

I got a Mapp bottle. It says it gets up to 3600*. After soaking with this stuff I might not need any heat.

 

Mapp gas torches are just not big enough. I've had good results by heating the bolt heads cherry red and then letting them cool 30secs or so. This usually breaks the bond between the bolt and the manifold. You can try your mapp torch on your broken off bolts, but like I said they need to get red hot and then cool some to come out. The one front bolt that I broke the ear on was actually loose and I had it turned out a couple of turns when the top half of the ear broke! I think now that the ear was cracked before I started, because it just fell off when I had a couple of turns out on the bolt. It made no noise at all, not the " crack " sound like you would usually hear when something breaks. Oh well, it's back together with a good manifold, so I'm happy! I really don't know why these manifolds crack. I did nothing I can think of to break it! I've heard this is a somewhat common problem with 200 and 250 exhaust manifolds.

 

I'm at home now

 

That looks absolutely fantastic!

 

WOW, that looks great. $35/$165 for both, and it won't burn off?

 

looks good jeff, hope your car picks up as much as mine did i put my header and temporary exhaust on tonight and wow what a differance