How many of you guys use a torque strap on your V-8 mavericks/comets so you dont blow up the left motor mount when you race/get on it hard.I have blown up numerous mounts and a Z-bar before I wised up and put a chain on the left side of the engine.Attached from an acessory bolt hole on the water pump to the frame rail(left side of engine) Reason I ask is mine is half-a@#ed and I am going to fab a proper frame mount that can be bolted or welded to the rail(I will weld mine on)Would any one be interested in a pattern?tech article or the actual component ready to install?? If so let me know.If time permits I plan on doing this in the next few weeks.
Tech articles are always welcome. I have a setup similar to yours, but with a turn buckle in the middle. I pretension it when I go racing or will be driving hard (rare) and leave it slack for putting around. Hasn't failed me yet.
I use a chain also. Hasn't let me down yet but would be interested in seeing what you come up with in its place. Jerry
Well, I'll add to the mix. I use solid motor supports for my strip-only Maverick. It's 'supposed' to allow for faster reaction times. I dunno. It sounds like it might. Here's a link to how both styles of motor supports are welded solid (yes, we found there are at least two styles during our conversations in that threaD). http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?p=295053&highlight=weld+motor+supports#post295053 Good luck.
i use a turnbuckle with eye bolts at both ends. one end is bolted to the head and the other comes up throug the sway bar bracket. of course i don't use the sway bar at all. just tighten the turnbuckle.
I see what you mean Rick.Mine is a street car.I had solid mounts in it for a short time.(couldnt live with em for regular use)This will be a mount that you can use a chain/strap or turn buckle with.Beats bolting to the sway bar mount.(especially if you have a sway bar in place)Its something I have been tossing around for years.Finally have the car apart and some time to play.
Got a killer deal on the dreaded Fram HP-1 oil filters, so bought a boat load of 'em. They are a bit longer than the standard size (1/2"+) Glanced at it last week and noticed a dent where it hit the bottom of the shock tower area. The engine is apparently rotating and shoving the filter into the chassis. Maybe it was always rotating, but with the standard filters on, it was clearing and not denting them. With the power steering and fuel pump in the way, I can't use the open 7/16" hole in the head for the torque strap anchor point. I rigged up a red-neck chain and turnbuckle from the ps bracket to the gusset that reinforces the front cross-member. Tested it under load, not much effect. Motor still rotating like a son of a bee. Other than bolting together the mounts, I could use some more ideas. Thanks!
Are you sure the mount isn't broken??? Might want to check that out. Simple method for strengthening the mount on the left side (No rocket science involved) Drill a 3/8" hole through the mount/rubber insert a 3/8" grade 5 Bolt with a nylock nut on the bottom. Tighten it up without squeezing the mount and let it ride. Works incredibly well. Man I forgot all about this thread...Never did bother with the bracket idea...Good luck...
MM72, I tested it under load and it did move, but it didn't seem to be as much as a broken one would do. Also noticed a dent in the Milodan oil pan (the big 8 quarter) where it's being shoved into the lower control arm mount. Was hoping to figure out a strap, but it sounds like the bolted mount idea is my only option. Thanks for the response !
I used a chain for 20 years or so, til I fabed up a chrome moly tube with left and right threaded heim joints. Looks better, but does the same job.
Back in the day we drilled mounts and "loosely" installed a grade 8 bolt(s) through them, never any issue... If you're launching really hard, it's a good idea to use grade 8 bolts into block(factory bolts have been known to snap the heads) and maybe the long, through bolt in chassis mount...
Greetings. Decided on new mount with 3/8" bolt. Carriage bolts may work, but went with the standard bolt and drilled the frame mount for clearance. Testing is ongoing, but so far so good.