I had the Lakewood chrome traction bars on my car. I was over at a friends house a couple of months ago. He has a Maverick that is a drag car. He had a set of homemade traction bars in his scrap pile. I asked if I could have them. He said go for it. Last year during tech inspection @ Mission Raceway, I was told my traction bars weren't legal. You now have to have a "U" clamp on the front of the bar. Today I installed the new bars. Getting ready for Mission Raceway next month. I'm not sure if I like the stance now... The front end is higher because of the traction bars. But, at least I'm legal...
i wouldnt think traction bars would change the stance. does the u-bolt pull the bar closer to the spring? i would think you would want a longer u-bolt. ive never heard of the u-bolt rule but ive never used that style traction bar either. i guess it would prevent the traction bar from going down and hiting the ground during heavy braking.
Maybe having the car on jack stands when you install the traction bars had something to do with changing the ride height.
lowered huh that's weard i would think it would have made it a lil higher if anything what hood scoop do you have on it that looks sweet
what hood scoop do you have on it that looks sweet [/QUOT It is the factory Comet GT hood scoop.... Glad you like it.
NHRA rule book general specs 3.5 All traction devices (slapper bars) must have a u bolt or strap to prevent them from coming in contact with the track. You dont have to do this with caltracs because they are fastnened at the front. Coop the reason it has lifted the front of the car is because the rubber snubbers are touching the springs, there should be a gap of at least a quarter inch between the rubber and leaf spring, you can accomplish this in 2 ways, either by cutting the snubber rubber down or by adding degree shim plates between the bars and leaf springs. I bet you notice a difference in the ride with the bars, kinda rough and a little squirrely in the front
Took it for a drive today. I did notice that it is stiffer. Didn't really get on it. The snubber is a 1/4 inch from the leaf spring. Guess I'm good to go... Thanks Mike... for the info.
Yellow75 is correct..................you do not want any contact with the snubber when the car is static. Also, very important.........although less important if not running slicks is that when the car is static measure the distance from both snubbers.............not just one..............and they need to be same, not one .125" and the other .225 or you will preload the chassis during acceleration..................and the car will not go straight without a fight.............IMHO
