I am running a Performance Automatic C-4. I put a cooler on it and running down the track it runs 180. Coming down the return road it warms up to 220. Do I need to address this? Let me know your thoughts. Thanks in advance.
I meant where did you put the sensor ? In one of the tranny lines or side of tranny or pan. Not up to speed on sensor mounting location ,I need to do this as well thats why I ask
the optimum temperature for your transmission is 170F. its life is cut in half for every 20F above that temperature. If you are running 12 seconds down the track and 30 - 45 seconds back then you are spending a lot more time at 220F than at 180F. If you can get a larger cooler it would be an excellent idea to use one. If not then get another the same size and use two. At 210F you are cutting the life of your C4 to 1/4 what it would normally be at 170F. Some things to check: 1 make sure that if you are using the radiator cooler that the front line goes to it and the back line (return) comes from the aftermarket cooler and back to the rear of the C4. If your engine temp goes over 185F DON'T use the radiator cooler. Do use the largest cooler you can find. It should be rated for towing nearly 30000 pounds. You can use water over the front of the case and over the cooler as the engine idles to help cool it down between runs.
Thanks for this input Paul. :Handshake I am not running through the radiator. I installed a cooler in front of the radiator & it was too small so I added another small one. I may eliminate these 2 and go to one larger one. I thought about using a Maverick AC Condensor (has anyone done this) but I am wodering if it will make my engine run warmer due to blocking air flow the the radiator. The only way to address the problem of heating up on the return road I guess would be installing a cooling fan on the trans cooler. Anyone have an idea for a better setup?
sensor installed in line gets spiked on high temp. Best to drill pan and install there. I have 5500 stall converter and saw line temp spike to 280 plus, installed in pan and temp came way down. I have a Derale cooler with fan mounted on firewall, works good! Keep lines away from headers and heat, I used SS braided.
Thanks for the feedback. I may take your advise on tapping the pan. I'll bet you have to have wheelie bars with that 5500 stall. I am just running a 3000 stall. May change that later.
A lot of good advise. I've been racing with automatics since year 1, and using petroleum based fluids in a transmission as well a motor should never be allowed to reach 220 degrees F as it will start to break down almost immediately. Although it gets to be expensive, (I use a trans brake) I change tranmission fluid after every weekend race. I have had purpose built transmission from TCI, Mike's and A-1 last for many seasons doing this....................in fact I have never had to rebuild or replace and transmission. My trans cooler is mounted in front of the radiator and I control the fan with a switch on my panel. The only time the trans gets hot (around 200) is on launch and going through the traps (to be expected with a trans brake). On the return road I turn the fan on and it rarely gets over 180. It also depends on what type of trans fluid you use. As you said, replace the two coolers with one good one and a good fan, and move the temp gauge out of the line and put it in the pan, you will get a much better idea of what the trans is acutally doing. IMHO
sensor goes in the pan. If it's in the line, depending on which line (inlet or outlet) it will read either real high or lower than actual trans temp is. If its in the "out" line, it will be reading converter temp which is GOING to be higher than the actual trans temperature. Obviously if you have a trans temp gauge, you think about what the trans temp does to performance...and if it's in the hot line, you're not getting a "true" trans temp reading. Only the converter fluid temp more or less. I guess one could always put it into the case somewhere but it's best in the pan and always submersed in oil. 180 is hot enough. 200+ and consistency drops off. Can't speak for actual tranmission life as we freshen them every year reguardless whether they actually need anything.
Just my thoughts on the subject. Had many years of trans troubles until we learned to build one the right way. The best investment for us was to use nothing but Castrol Type F in the C4's and also the PG's that we now use. Full season and the fluid looks new using external cooler with no fan. The Mav runs high 5's in the 1/8th and the Mont mid 6's. Both are glides and 5000+ stalls.
Thanks for the input Dave. I have Penzoil Type F in it now & I will take your recommendation on the Castrol. Those are darn good times your running there.
