I got the valve body modifications done, replaced the seal in the linkage, put it all back together again, but I don't think I am able to get to all the gears. I think I am either going from 1-2-3-N-R or 2-3-N-R-P. When I hook up the shifter, it will either not go into 1 or P, depending on where I put the linkage. Is there something simple I could have missed? Maybe not lined something up right during reassembly? Does it make a difference that the trans it dry, and there is no fluid in there? In the Haynes Ford Transmission Techbook (p. 8A-36, for those of you that have the book) the instructions say "Slowly lower the control valve assembly on the case. Align the slot in the manual valve with the post on the inner manual valve." I don't recall lining anything up. Is this my problem? And, if so, could someone translate what this is telling me to do? Also, I don't have the kickdown lever on...should I put some kind of washer or something to keep the space filled between the nut and the o-ring?
It's got to have the proper amount of fluid for anything to work...it's 100% hydraulically controlled, just like all automatic transmissions. That said, There is a pin that sticks out on the actual shift lever that's in the case. There is a slot all the way around the manual valve on one end. The pin should go into the slot...if it doesn't, you won't have anything but park and whatever other gear the manual valve decides to go into. Also, if you're not using the kickdown, make sure there is a nut & washer or something on the end, if nothing else, but to keep dirt out & fluid in.
The shifter should go through all the gears without fluid, just won't do anything. Do not crank it without fluid, obviously bad. I don't know the internals well enough to advice on that, but something is wrong if you are not getting full range of motion + notches for each gear.
the pin on the end of the shift linkager must fit into the slot in the end of the manual valve. sounds like you may have missed it.
blown, i didnt even see the manual valve rod on that diagram??? igo1090, does the manual valve rod sit flush with the end of the hole it comes out of in other gears while in park? or does it stick out just a little? the manual valve rod in my chiltons looked nothing like the one in the trans and im not sure i have mine lined up right now. i had to move my lever assembly from the old c-4 to the new PA one and im sure i was careful to check where they were
Now, this pin...is it the 90* bend tab, about an inch long, that sorta just flips around in there from the inner manual shift arm, or is it attached to the outer shift arm. I am pretty sure this is where my problem is. There is not much else that I messed with, leaving the gears and bands and all that alone. I have "pay-for-bills" work to do today, this afternoon, I will drop that valve and try again. Thanks and wish me luck.
the one on the inner arm controlled by the outer shift arm; not the downshift arm. the outer shift arm probably hangs down (depending on oem floor or column shift maybe). pushed all the ways toward front is PARK if i remember right. all the ways rear is 3rd. put it where you like and position manual valve where it will line up when you install vb. (im going by memory here.) anyone else do one more recently than last year? you should be able to shift thru all gears with trans dry and engine off of course.. if you cant, there is a problem. dont run engine without fluid in trans!!!
I think I got it! I don't know the names of all the parts I am working with, but in my own terms, I got the rod on the shifter dropped into the last groove on the largest plunger on the valve body. Put her all together, and it shifts smoothly into all gears. I still need to fill it up and fine-tune the shifter to drop into all the gears, etc. One last question. I am currently running O'reilly no-name brand Type F fluid. I would like to upgrade to at least the Castrol Type F (I have always trusted Castrol for good products), but I am guessing that I still have 1-4 quarts in the converter. It is good colored, still fairly bright red and clear, but can I get it out without dropping the converter drain plug (those bolts on the converter cover were too tight to get loose, all they did was turn the engine, and I don't want to mess with that right now). I have heard rumors of being able to blow it out through one of the cooling lines? If so, does it matter which one I blow through, and do I catch it out of the other tube, or drop the pan and let it blow out the bottom?
Is there not a bolt to drain the converter? On mine, the flex plate has a hole in it to allow access to a screw to drain the converter.
I turned mine over a few times, but did not see a hole in the plate to let me through. There was one place that had a plastic plug, with 4 little "wings" on it. I assume that if I could get the plug out, the screw-in drain plug would be under there. But I couldn't figure out how to get it off, and just left it alone. Anyone come across this plastic cap?
It is raining and dark here...I have to put fluid in tomorrow, adjust the shifter so it really is in R when I put it in R, and then test it out...Can't wait... :evilsmile
i have had convertors that didn't have the drain plug. if the fluid looks okay i would just add the castrol type f. hughes convertors and transmissions told me they have tested all kinds of tranny fluids on their tranny dyno and they reccommend castrol type f for ALL there transmissions.
Good...I have always used Castrol...20w-50 in my motorcycles, 10w-30 in most cars, and 5w-30 in some of the newer 4-bangers. Got 285,000 miles in a 1983 280-Zx before I had to trade it in for something with a body that wasn't rusted completely away...I mean, I could see the road under both floorboards, the heater core was gone, no A/C, but it still chirped going into 4th gear on a 5 speed manual trans. Castrol...it is not Lucas, but a good second. I am glad to not get a long list of "dude, castrol sucks!" after posting my leanings toward that brand. SPeaking of which, is there a lucas addition I could add, or similar? Plus, I got no yea/nea on blowing the old oil out through the cooler lines....
guess you found the manual valve. glad to see you got it in all gears now. dont know about blowing thru lines. sounds messy and unlikely to work. if you are worried about the fluid being left, drive it for a few days and change it again. after that it should be mostly new stuff.
