Hey guys and gals, just swapped my Edelbrock out for a Holley Carb. Now I need a little help.I can't find any exploded views or diagrams of a Holley showing which screws are for mixture, and which is for idle. It will crank and run, just not well. When I get it to idle good in park, putting it in gear pulls it down too far. It spits and stutters when I drive it, BUT it already makes more power than it did with the Edelbrock. So can anybody offer any advice here? New to Holleys. Thanks! Preston
Stop what you are doing, right now! Go buy a book on tuning Holleys. They usually run under 20 bux, best 20 bux you'll ever spend. Get the book that focuses primarily on your model carb and goes deep into performance tuning. The areas you will need to work on right away: Adjusting pump linkage Setting idle mix (the screw on each side of the primary block) Setting idle speed Checking float level (get clear sight plugs for this, much easier) Vacuum port in the primary block goes to distributor Any in the base are for things like pcv, power brakes, modulator valve Speaking of auto trannys... add a Ford style kickdown if your carb doesn't have one. Get reusable bowl/block gaskets in there fairly quick. If you wait, then jet fine tuning later will be a pain with the factory gaskets baked on. The jets should be safe for running now. Don't do major changes from your baseline, such as jets, squirters, and such, until you have it running fair. Do changes from there ONE AT A TIME! Multiple changes at once can lead to problems. One change might cancel another and you will never know it, or worse yet, one change can cause an issue but you made several, so you have to guess which change caused the issue. Let us know more! What model (list) number did you get? What CFM? Vacuum or DP? Single or double fuel line? New or used? If used, has it been gone through? What tranny? What gears? What intake? What cam? Dave Btw: Isn't it amazing how you can feel the difference? I noticed with several carbs, that I swapped to a Holley, how much better the car ran. Holleys are not known for economy, but they perform better than anything out there.
One more reason I love my AFB, no tinkering.........I bought 2 new Holley carbs and both of them poured gas out of the top of them when I put them on. I've never had any problems with Carters or Edelbrocks, but I'm not a serious racer either.
Float level too high or too much fuel pump pressure. Easy fix. Holleys do require a bit a time and thought to set up, but after that you are gold for a long time. The car runs so much better because of the tunability of a Holley.
Yep, that's why I hated my Edelbrock. It ran like crap and you COULDN'T tune it. Not much anyway. Like I say, I just sat it on there, and took it for a test drive. Not running good at all, and STILL made more power than with the Edelbrock on the rare occasion that it ran decent. I'll have to check on the model numbers. I traded with a friend of mine. This was a spare carb of his, he's going to give the Edelbrock to another guy. It is used, but he had it on a 289 and on a 302 and it ran well on both. It's just that he lives 80 miles from here, so he can't just hop over here and tune it. I believe I will get a book on it, just gotta get the model number. It's on top, isn't it? Thanks guys! Preston
It's on the front of the air horn. It will say "LIST XXXX-X" An example would be "LIST 3310-3" That would be a 750 vacuum, 3rd generation... If the carb was on other SBFs, it might be tuned really close unless his engines were more radical or the carb has set longer than say 6 months. Either case would require some work. Dave
im only 15 years old, but i have learned a lot. i would run the vacuum hose form the dist. to the nipple on the front of the carb on the bottom and cover up the one on the metering block. i think that it pulls better vacuum that way. also the idle screw are on the side of the metering block. turn both of the screws in all ythe way then bring it back out about 1.5 turns then fine tune. to make sure that your floats are not set too high take the screw out of the side of the bowls. if the gas pours out the floats are too high. the gas should barely come out. that should help out. it helped me when i had that problem.
Can't do that... The bottom vacuum port pulls more, but the distributor needs less to function properly. Better explained, the port above the throttle plate pulls little vac at idle, but more as the throttle plates open. That is when you want your advance to come in. The ports in the plate are exactly opposite. They pull more at idle, but less as the plates open... so you are not getting your timing when you mash the gas. The port on the block is MADE for the distributor function, don't try to re-invent the wheel. If you are advancing the timing at idle, then set it properly, your timing is actually retarding as you accellerate the way you are currently operating. Dave
Olive Branch eh... The Mav in my avitar is a Memphis native. Picked it up while living around Hickory Hill. I want to say it was from a Ford lot in Olive Branch... but I can't remember for sure. I pulled the dealer chrome off years ago.
hey Country, check this site out, READ it thoroughly though. if you have questions most can be answered by just reading further. http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm
