UCA/Arning/Shelby drop questions

ok i have a 74 "Grabber" with a 302/Toploader. i would like to do the shelby drop to the UCA. i'm only gona do the 1" drop on it but i have the reinforcement plate on the car and i wanted to kno what type of modification i will have to do to the plate to get the drop to work right. any help would b nice. i kno it would b a tough thing to ask but i'm better visually then someone explaining it to me so pic of it would b best but i understand if noone has any.

 

Here's the down and dirty version.

Step 1 - install indexing plate and drill pilot holes


Step 2 - carefully drill holes out to proper size


Step 3 - test fit UCA bushing shaft, use big hammer to adjust reinforcing plate clearance as necessary
Note: if the ends of the traditional UCA bushing kit (K8131) hit the shock tower, you can convert to MOOG's new style UCA bushing kit (K8233) or drill big holes for clearance.


Step 4 - reinforce the engine bay side of the new holes if necessary

 

Step 2 shows the same plate.

 

i just noticed that didnt have my glasses on when i fist looked at it thanks again for the help

 

Put on your scientist goggles, Dr. Frankenstein!

 

now my next question is is the drop 1" from hole center to center or is it bottom of stock hole to center of new hole? as i'm alil confused on that part

 

Center to center. You can make your own index plate (be precise) or you can buy one.

 

i was about to make 1 myself i started to make 1 a while back but i didnt finish it and it has been lost now.

 

Make sure your hole centers are true and square. You want to go straight down, parallel to the original holes, without moving forward or rearward.

 

i made 2 of them out of 1/16" steel as i have heard of people using them as reinforcement. so with the idea of maybe welding n the plate after the holes r drilled for added strength but that was an idea that ran through my head now i just need to modify the stock reinforcement plate to make clearance for the UCA.

 

looks like I got here too late, but there is also an added advantage to be gained from relocating the arms down AND back on such castor challenged cars as these.

You can also gain a bit of much needed castor by spinning the upper arms shafts slightly off center towards the rear as well. Add those two mods together and the affect can help high speed stability quite substantially. Helps snap the wheel back to center when you're auto-crossing in the parking lots on occasion too.

 

Good points! But a little over my head, so I simply showed the standard drop.

 

For the early Mustang it's recommended to move control arms back approx 1/8", but it's stated there isn't enough room on newer models... Rotating shaft is a good alternative for moving UCA rearward(and what I'll do next time mine is apart)...

There are probably a dozen good articles on the net, just search Shelby Drop...

BTW this mod was developed by a Ford engineer to be used along with IRS, that was deemed too expensive to produce... Was found the mod made a huge difference even with solid axle so Shelby used it on his earlier cars...

 

again thanks for all the info and help. but what how would you rotate the UCA shaft as i can only think u can rotate it 180Degs

 

With mounting bolts removed, the shaft can be rotated 360* in either direction... Half turn is probably enough so you'd reinstall bolt from opposite side...

Take a good look at clearance, may be possible to move the arms back as I believe towers are wider than Mustang(all these cars use same UCA beginning with '66 Fairlane/Falcon & '67 Mustang on up to the '80 Granada)... Mav uses same towers as '66-'69 Fairlane/Torino, Falcon, Cyclone etc and are larger than Stang...

And before it's mentioned the '70-up arms use a three bolt ball joint vs earlier four bolt, it makes no difference... Other than needing correct joint for your specific arm, are same... My guess Ford went to three rivets as they are cheaper than four(remember time required to install)...