Updated pictures of sub frame connectors

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by james comet, Nov 29, 2006.

  1. james comet

    james comet Member

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    Updated pictures of sub frame connectors and headers taken today.

    http://img77.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000594rz4.jpg

    http://img77.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000591tp5.jpg

    http://img77.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000593xe3.jpg

    http://img77.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000595dq5.jpg

    The sub frame connectors are only bolted in right now and will be welded later. My mechanic is a stickler for detail and he checks everything first before it is welded. Also he has to cut the aluminum drive shaft to 45 inches which I think being shorter will not hurt. I think he stated the connectors are 3/16ths tube size. Anyway, what do you guys think? :clap:

    james comet
     
  2. eddie1975

    eddie1975 Windsor Specialist

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    hate to break it you , but if thats you saftey loop it wont pass tech. it does not go all the way around ( RICK ;) ) and its way to far back it needs to be 6 inchs from the center of the u-joint at the tranns


    did crites send you a collector for those headers?


    and why are you cutting your driveshaft?
     
  3. wagesofsin

    wagesofsin Official Lurkologist

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    x configuration is much stronger, and a true loop for the shaft is better. otherwise, for street use, looks stout?..enough
     
  4. eddie1975

    eddie1975 Windsor Specialist

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    yes AND its the RULES, plus its to far back even if you had the top half if that thing breaks its goin beat the hell out of the tranny tunnel, and yes it could come though

    or it could dig into the ground and really F some stuff up ( you will get an idea if you ever seen the mythbusters episode)
     
  5. james comet

    james comet Member

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    He's not done yet?

    He's not done yet? He just started and he is going to put cross members in and make all the necessary adjustments. He has done this a million times before and this is what he does for a living. And yes eddie, I have the collectors. The tranny is a baby C6 and the drive shaft is from a 2002 mustang I think, hence the need for shortening. Btw, this car is strictly a street car and I will not be taking it to the drag strip. :yikes:

    james comet
     
  6. eddie1975

    eddie1975 Windsor Specialist

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    i kinda assumed with the set up you have it will be goin to the track

    c6 is the reason you have to shorten , not cause the driveshaft (maybe little of both)
     
  7. james comet

    james comet Member

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    Do you think the shorter drive shaft

    Do you think the shorter drive shaft will give it a little more torque? You see sometimes shorter is better!:bananaman :eek: :yikes:

    james comet
     
  8. eddie1975

    eddie1975 Windsor Specialist

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    :rofl: yeah ive tried that line a million times:biglaugh:



    no shorter drive shaft wont give you more torque
     
  9. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Besides, you could easily put a "legal" loop further forward, just a cheap one.

    I really like what you have going, and those custom headers?...Should eliminate any clearance issues (y)
     
  10. CornedBeef4.6L

    CornedBeef4.6L no longer here

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    Most of the time when people say it's just a street car they are scared to lay the hammer down for fear it will not perform to expactations. :evilsmile
     
  11. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    Mine is "just a street car", except for those 3-4 nights a year when it is a "track car" :D

    I am NOT afraid to hammer it, and am never upset that my expectations are not met, and they seldom are. But that is what drives me to keep on working on it, and sinking mucho dinero into it :D
     
  12. eddie1975

    eddie1975 Windsor Specialist

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    those are the crites headers, yeah a cheap one will fit with a little cutting, trust me i knw



    :yup: :evilsmile
     
  13. ATOMonkey

    ATOMonkey Adam

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    I think the "loop" at the back of the frame is just there to clear the DS. It's not meant to contain it in the event of a failure.

    The safety loop is supposed to go in the front, because that's where most of the damage occurs. When you break a rear u-joint, the tranny spits out the DS pretty quick. When you break the front joint, the rear end continues to whip that bad boy around until the rear joint fails. It's also there to keep the DS from whacking you in the ass.

    Looks like a really stout setup. How much power do you plan to make?
     
  14. james comet

    james comet Member

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    Your right!

    Your right, the loop is there for clearance. Also the bottom of the cross connectors (front and back) is where the exhaust pipes will be attached along with the mufflers and the tail pipes will be pointing downward to the ground making the car sound even louder than it already will be.

    Here are pictures of the motor (408) stroker. This is a professionally built motor and I know for a fact it will run in the 10's just like it is and it will put out over 500hp. I am certaintly not concerned about dropping the hammer thinking it won't perform to expectations. I have another question? Are ssbc brakes good enough to stop this bad boy?

    http://mmb.maverick.to/showthread.php?t=18514

    james comet
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2006
  15. CornedBeef4.6L

    CornedBeef4.6L no longer here

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    Great then race it and get the time slip :bowdown:(y)that puts the doubters out to pasture.:D

    I wouldn't see why those brakes wouldn't work. Looks like you are having fun puttin this together keep the updates coming
     

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