upper control arm removal

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Racer_X, Jan 5, 2012.

  1. Racer_X

    Racer_X Maverick Hugger

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    In order to unbolt my upper control arms can I take the bolts out from the backside(suspension side under the fender) or am I going to have to take the nuts off on the other side of the shock tower im not sure if the bolts are pressed in or not. I would like to take them out and replace the bushings in them instead of buying new upper control arms.
     
  2. sgaugeguy

    sgaugeguy Bob Kraus

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    The bolts are pressed in like a wheel stud.
     
  3. Racer_X

    Racer_X Maverick Hugger

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    is it easy to tap them out?
     
  4. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    Make sure coil spring is removed FIRST.

    Remove nuts inside the engine compartment.
     
  5. Racer_X

    Racer_X Maverick Hugger

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    ok will do
     
  6. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    I don't hear too many success stories on rebuilding the upper control arm. Most of the time the threads get stripped on the arm that holds the shaft bushing.
     
  7. maverick1970

    maverick1970 MCG State Rep

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    Moog makes a problem solver kit (K8233) just for that. It uses a press in bushing and different style shaft
     
  8. rthomas771

    rthomas771 Member

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    The problem solver shaft cost $62.68...the upper ball joint cost $33.38 If he has plans to replace the ball joint along with the shaft he will have $96 invested in a 40 year old control arm or he could throw another $4 in his project and have a new upper control arm with new shaft and new ball joint. Then he won't have to go through the trouble centering the shaft and replacing the ball joint. If one of the parts are on back order then he will have extra shipping charges added and then have more than $100 invested in an old control arm. I'm looking at the big picture after it's all said and done.
     
  9. maverick1970

    maverick1970 MCG State Rep

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    I understand what your saying. (y) I was just giving input that there is a solution to the problem you stated.

    I worry about the quality of some of the replacement parts being sold as well.
     
  10. mercgt73

    mercgt73 Member Supporting Member

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    This is what I struggled with, but I went ahead with the 8233 kit (which I was able to find for $37 for both sides). My main reason was for doing the Shelby Drop, the new style shaft is physically shorter and does not interfere with the shock tower when lowered. My second reason was no matter how much I drive it, the new kit should reduce the chance to have to replace the squeaky upper bushings again. Would new "old" style bushings never squeak? Maybe, I don't know.

    Also I wanted MOOG parts, and I was not sure if new upper arms came with MOOG parts, but that is easily found out. Overall, I guess once I rack up thousands of Roundup miles I will see if I made a good choice.
     
  11. Racer_X

    Racer_X Maverick Hugger

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    in case i do get the kit to rebuild them how would i go about centering the shaft?
     
  12. mercgt73

    mercgt73 Member Supporting Member

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    The bushings press into the upper arm up to the built in shoulders. You can press one, then insert the shaft, then press the second bushing in.
     
  13. Racer_X

    Racer_X Maverick Hugger

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    i will take them apart and see what the threads look like when i get them out, i may have to go to mustangs unlimited to get some, there $77.90 each($69.95+shipping). the moog control arms are high priced. it looks like the price went up since the last time i bought moog parts.
     
  14. Racer_X

    Racer_X Maverick Hugger

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