I have a '77 Lincoln Versailles that I was planning on using the 9" rear end and disc brakes on my '72 Grabber. I've noticed a lot of people are now using the 8.8 rear out of an Explorer. I have 2 questions. How much do the Explorer rear ends typically go for? Would I be better off looking for an Explorer rear or should I stick with the one from the Versailles?
Versailles rearends are pretty scarce around here, and parts are getting harder to get. They use to be the rearend to have. 8.8's are lighter, and easier to find, and as far as I can tell, just as strong as a 9". I bought a 96 Explorer limited for $150.00, took the motor, rearend, power window motors, and a few other goodies, and sent it to the scrap yard, and got $330.00, PLUS I sold the wheels and tires for another $150.00.... I think, Paxtond told me the auto wreckers want $275.00 for a complete rearend around here.
I got a couple of explorer disc rearends for $80 each last fall. Gotta pull it yourself, but it beats $275.
If your Versailles rear end is complete with all hardware and parking brake levers, I would definately use it. If it is missing anything, you will long and hard and pay $$ to complete it, which in my opinion, would not be worth it. The later model disc set-ups are so much lighter and superior to that old Versailles stuff. People are still paying decent money for the Versailles rear ends, so maybe you could sell it and buy a cheaper Explorer axle and have some play money left over. Also, most of those Versailles rear ends had very high (numerically low) gear ratios, where the Explorers have more desirable gear ratios for perfomance, since they were coupled to overdrive transmissions.
Im thinking about useing the explorer rear also. What is the hub to hub measurement? Is this a direct fit?
Sell for $150 hub to hub all day here. For all the stuff you get its an awesome deal. 3.27 or lower gears, limited slip, disc brakes and 31 spline axles! No direct fit, can't remember the exact length but its around 3" longer than the stock rear end. Welding and cutting is required. EDIT: looked up the width. 59.25 explorer 56.50 maverick.
I have one sitting on the floor, in my garage right now. I could measure....but this should give the answer... http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Explorer8_8.html The Maverick rear end in 56.5 wide (?) and the Explorer is 59.5 wide.
that's about right for around here, anywhere from $200-$400 depending on ratios and trac-loc option. We didn't have the big cash for clunkers deal so there's not as many in the yards here....otherwise can't explain the price difference (US pick and pulls seem to be cheaper overall than the ones here - based on prices I've heard quoted in the past here anyway...). On top of that anybody parting them (Explorers) out around here never wants to sell the rear separately - I guess they want to be able to roll it onto a trailer to get it to the JY.
I've heard a few people talk about using 1996 Explorers. Are there certain years that are better to use over others?
If you have the Versailles rear already, use it. It'll be a lot easier to install than an Explorer rear that'll need cutting and welding done. Check the I'd tag on the Versailles and see what ratio and if it's got a trac-loc unit. Both gears and a trac loc unit are easily changed in a 9".
I have a spare 98 MK VIII IRS. It is a very close fit little wider. Its a rear loaded 8.8 aluminum housing. Ive done this mod on 57 chubbys. I assume my 73 has an 8". I really like the front loaded 3rd member concept. Much like the Dana 60 on my 84 Bronco. HMMM. I dont want to cut and weld to incorporate the explorer Rear end. Im thinking. ...Thanks for the heads up.
Versaille's weigh a ton and have crappy gears....Is it a street car?....Why not just update the 8" you have?.....Unless you plan on a ton of power or hard launches, your 8" can be upgraded to take a pretty good amount of power just bolting stuff to it
On one of my other forums, there is a guy that offers a set of adapters so that you can keep your existing 8 inch rear end. I am offering a "kit" to allow you to adapt 1991 Lincoln-2000+, Crown Vic and Merqury Grand Marquis 1992-2000+ rear disc brakes to your stock small bearing 8" or 9" Ford rearend. Will work with 28 or 31 spline axles! This is the cheapest way to convert to rear disc brakes that I am aware of! Just think, if they use these brakes on a monster Highway Patrol car, they should work great on a Cougar, Mustang, Falcon, Fairlane, etc!!! Plus parts are easy to find, since they are still in use today, and best of all, they are CHEAP! These have internal drum type e-brake assemblies incorporated into the backing plate assy' and are not a part of the caliper, like the old Versailles unit, and like the SVO or Mark 7 calipers, both which are basically unavailable or expensive to find/rebuild. These late model calipers consist of a caliper housing, a piston, and the retractor seal and dust boot. How much simpler can it be! You must modify your housing ends slightly so that the caliper brackets fit properly, but this is easily done, and will not affect you if you should choose to go back to drums. Done properly, nobody would notice except for the most astute! Other than this, no major mods are needed but items will need to be fabricated. These are: 1) Brake line attachments- flex to hardline. Depends entirely on application. 2) E-brake attachment- changes from 2 sided cable to single cable. Much cleaner! 3) Two small tabs may need to be cut off of the caliper brackets to clear the rims. They have no structural function. It's just that they are there.... and don't need to be! An air cut-off wheel works great for this and modifying the axle housing ends, but it's cast iron and would cut easily with a hack saw too. The instructions will clearly detail this. 4) Remove any residual pressure valves etc. that may be in the master cylinder rear system. Not doing so, could result in the calipers staying "on" and you could cook your rotors/calipers! This is a standard item required on all rear disc conversions as far as I am aware. IF you are going to use factory 14" rims, you must use a 5mm or 1/8" wheel spacer to clear the caliper. If you are running stock 15" or aftermarket rims, clearance should not be an issue, however, not having access to every type of rim made, I reserve the right to be wrong! You will need the following pieces from the donor car to make this work properly: A COMPLETE set of disc brakes from either a 91-95 Lincoln or 92-95 Crown Vic or Grand Marquis, or the same from a 96 and up vehicle. Cop car stuff is fine!! You need: Backing plates or caliper mounting plates/brackets Backing plate mounting bolts (4 per side) Calipers and rubber flex lines Rotors (new ones are cheap at $29-$40 each!!!! So you may not want to mess with used ones) 10- Wheel studs from same car. (this is important in two ways!) E-brake cables- just easier to start with parts that work together! Typically, you can find these parts at wrecking yards for around $100 or less. If you add in new rotors, it may reach $140. Performance rotors and pads are readily available as well. Now, you can go to eBay and buy this same stuff, but it will cost you more, and I know of no one that offers the following specially machined parts that allow this swap to happen!!! These donor cars are all over in the yards today, and offer a cheap supply! Why deal with sellers, bidding, and expensive shipping, when you can pull the parts yourself (or have your kids do it...!) for a lot less! If you like bidding on eBay, continue to do so, however, you will still need one of my "kits". Here's what I offer: 91-95 Small hub axle kit: $50 #9195SA Hub spacers to center the brake rotor on the small hubs. Bearing spacers- so that your axles don't move in the housing!!! This is extremely IMPORTANT!!! Failure to use these could be very dangerous!!! Backing plate washers- needed because of the way they are machined. Instructions- I lay it all out.... 91-95 Big hub axle kit: $25 #9195BA All of the above except the hub spacers. This is for someone that has replaced their axles with later model (73 I believe) versions that have the larger hub diameter on them. Your stock rims will not fit on these axles unless someone has torched out the inner holes of the rims! 96+ Small hub axle kit: $50 #96SA Hub spacers to center the brake rotor on the small hubs. Bearing spacers- so that your axles don't move in the housing!!! This is extremely IMPORTANT!!! Failure to use these could be very dangerous!!! Instructions- I lay it all out.... 96+ Large Hub axle kit: $25 #96BA Same as the above but minus the hub spacers. Again, stock rims will not fit on these axles unless someone has torched out the inner holes of the rims! This would be needed if you have a '73 rear end or axles I believe. Proper installation will require that you have your old wheel bearings removed and replaced in order to fit the bearing spacers, however, if you've never done them yet, it is probably time to do so, as well as the housing seals. Just makes good sense! I am in the process of writing the instructions, complete with pictures, and expect to have that completed by the month end. This really is one of the best kept secrets in the Ford world! You could make these yourself and you are welcome to do so, however, don't expect me to cough up the dimensions.....! Of course then you may need to find a machinist friend, find metal stock, buy beer, and then wait..... OR, you can order them from me and be done with it, PLUS get instructions and pictures. To sweeten the deal further, I will ship free to forum members that mention that they saw this on the Classic Cougar Forum! So now you have it. Rear disc brakes for under or about $200. This is affordable to just about everyone! Thanks for reading! Steve 408-727-8678 eves or contact me via email.