What do you recommend?

Discussion in 'Drag Racing' started by scrapper60, May 14, 2007.

  1. scrapper60

    scrapper60 MCCI Member

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    As ya'll know, I'm building a 9" rearend for the racecar. I've been thinking about changing out the springs when I put in the new rearend. Would be as good a time as any, I guess. I want to keep it light as possible. What about fiberglass springs, mono, or even the Calvert 2 piece springs?
    And shocks, can't forget about them. What about mounting both shocks behind the axle?

    I already have the homemade Calvert bars and clamped the stock springs. That helped traction alot but I'm also thinking of going to a taller and wider tire as in a slick. I'm thinking I'm going to need it when I hookup the nitrous.

    Let the party begin,,,,,,,,,,,,

    Jerry
     
  2. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    J.C. Whitney 4-leaf and Caltracs. 'Nuff said...
     
  3. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    I don't know what kind of number's you plan on putting down (hp/torque) but I assume it's nothing too radical (not 800+ or anything??).

    Also, I don't know your budget so I'll assume you're not going to completely po-boy it, but nor or you going to gold-plate a four-link system.

    Here's my :2cents:

    I wanted to try the 2-peice spring from Calvert Racing also. I like the idea. If I ever change springs, I think that will be the way I go. Also, from "the book" on drag racing, "soft spring, stiff shocks" is the optimum setup. I took a leaf out of my springs to achieve a softer spring rate.

    FWIW, unless you want to build a cross-member behind the rear end, bolting the shocks to the front of the Cal-Tracs is much easier. You can bolt up to the stock attachment locations.

    I really don't know the benefit or draw-backs of placing them either in front or behind. I would think that they would take the shock load of the pinion better if they are in front (collapsing the shock rather than extending it if they were located in the rear). However, if you have an adjustable shock, you could adjust for either I suppose.

    I use the adjustable shocks from QA-1. You'll need to get your own ride height to determine which part number will work best for your setup.

    Also, the QA-1's will not mount directly to the Cal-Tracs because of the different end configurationc. I used shock mounts for a Fox Body Mustang to adapt from the horizontal hole on the Cal-Tracs to the Vertical hole in the QA-1's. Your local Ford dealer can get them for you. I think they're less than $10 each.

    Note on pinion angle:
    I am running 5* negative pinion angle with the Cal-Tracs. Most sites will tell you to run 7 to 9* with a leaf spring set-up. I can't imagine the Cal-Tracs allowing more than a 4* pinion twist under load. I can't prove it, so that's just a guess. Your mileage may vary.

    RE: Taller tire
    Hmmm.... shorter tires will help you 60' better - which pays better dividends at the end of the track, (a tenth decrease in the 60' will be worth a couple or more at the end of the track). Personally, I'm maxing out at 28" tall tire. I'm still in the hunt for the "best" setup also but the tire height and gear ratio is definitely something to pay close attention to.

    As far as width - I recommend only going as wide as needed. The wider the tire, the more drag (friction) you have to overcome once you've launched. If you can launch with a smaller tire (say 9") your e.t. will be better - however, for consistency, a wider tire is better - but may not provide the best e.t.

    All my info is based on my personal experience, either first-hand or on a buddy's ride. I'm sure there are plenty of opinions on this subject. Good luck on determining which is best for you (only Testing and Tuning will tell).

    Good luck.
     
  4. Erick-Mav

    Erick-Mav Maverick Punk

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    I like the Calvert Split Mono Leafs. They make them semi-custom to your setup. They have worked good for me.

    I think mounting the shocks behind the axle is supposed to be good, but I don't think it is critical at first. I've been wanting to do it, but I'm not sure it will do much.

    I run a 26x10 ET Drag and it has worked great so far. I think they are starting to lose their effectiveness though and I plan on going to a 28x9 slick since I will be adding nitrous too. I think the taller tire will be good for nitrous to soften the hit. The tire, Caltrac, shock, air pressure, and springs all need to be worked out for your specific combo and variables such as launch rpm, engine torque, gearing, weight, etc. etc.

    I'd recommend starting out with a proven combo (Calvert stuff) and go testing to improve and see what your car likes.
     
  5. ShadowMaster

    ShadowMaster The Bad Guy

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    Aaaaaaaannnnnddd T.L. checks in with yet another "one size fits all" recommendation!!!! :slap:

    Both Rick and Erick make good points. A softer spring along with adjustable shocks will greatly help in tuning the chassis. "Soft springs/stiff shocks" is absolutely correct. The spring does nothing more than hold the car up. It is the shock that does 99% of the work in transmitting power through the suspension. Mounting the shocks behind the rear is not really necessary unless you want to go with coil-overs and ladder bars. The stock location is fine for all but the most violent cars. Rick's recommendation of using the smallest tire you can hook with is dead on. I would suggest a 28x9 mounted on a 10" wide wheel. This will "spread" the contact patch out and allow the sidewalls to do their job of absorbing and directing the torque.
     
  6. scrapper60

    scrapper60 MCCI Member

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    Good information Gentlemen. I'll put it to use as I go along, one step at a time.
    Thanks a ton for the replies.
    Jerry
     
  7. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    Whatever, dude. Some of you guys love to over-complicate things...
     
  8. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    That is exactly what I have...Haven't tried it yet, but hope it is better than what I was driving on...even though I know it is not the optimum racing setup, but with my moderately low power setup, I think it will do just fine...if I can only keep the front tires on the ground:rolleyes: :p :D
     
  9. Rick Book

    Rick Book Member

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    :biglaugh: You're cracking me up, Scott. I can't wait to see Della do a "wheel stand" for ya. :Handshake
     
  10. scooper77515

    scooper77515 No current projects.

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    DELETED

    I tried to make a Star Wars-referenced joke, then thought about it and recognized that I had used the wrong word, then couldn't even think of how to spell the correct word, and figured, the joke was dead by that point, and deleted...:cry:
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2007
  11. ShadowMaster

    ShadowMaster The Bad Guy

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    And everyone that believes that is standing on their head in the corner. :bananaman

    And some people are not content with the "status quo". Some like to look at options, test, tune, try something else, test, tune, tinker, test, etc, etc, etc. Most racers will try several things in the pursuit of going quicker and/or more consistent.

    Others are content with something that worked initially and don't want to do anything else. (Hint: that would be you, T.L.)
     
  12. Hawkco

    Hawkco Genuine Car Nut

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    On my drag car (3rd in line on the project list), I plan to start with stock springs, Cal-Tracs, and good race shocks. Next, would be to play with the spring setup. I see it as a process where you are not not necessarily eliminating what doesn't work as much as you are finding what works.
     
  13. T.L.

    T.L. Banned

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    Yep, that's Me. The Maverick is "The Simple Machine", and I like to keep it that way. Of course I must admit that I am not a racer, but more of a muscle car/classic cruiser kind of guy...
     

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