several people have pointed out that i need a higher stall how much higher and what kind i have a b&m torqemaster 2400 right now in it.i need some suggestions. thanks john
I use a performance automatic 5000 in my car. Picked up 3 tenths in the 8th mile over a tci 3500. The higherstall more expensive converters are usually more efficient also. KInd of a get what you pay for. But theres always exceptions... Also if you do choose a brand you can usually give them a call for reccomendations.
what specs do you mean gene like cam, heads,carb cam-ford racing e-303 heads ported polished e-7s carter afb 750 mallory unilite dizzy 6al box edelbrock performer 289 intake 1989 5.0 roller motor stock bottom end trac loc with 4.11 gears hoosier quik time tires p.s. i do have time slips of my runs if that will help
I'm sorry. I just assumed that the info would help determin the stall. I am wanting to learn how to figure this out too so I can get the one I need also. So WHAT do we need to know to get the answer?
thats a good one hopefully someone will chime in and help us out because i have no clue either.but i do know i need a bigger stall just dont know how to determine what stall i need.
Here is a link to what the guy that built mine wanted to know, I did not have all the answers to the questions but this will give you an idea. You are on the right track with what you have posted but to get what is really best for you it is best to talk with the people that make them as no 2 combinations are the same. Be prepaired to pay a few dollars for the higher end stuff but most the time they will redo it once if you dont like the stall. I am new to the automatic world and am just learning this stuff as well but I do know that if your stall is not right you are losing a lot. http://www.ultimateconverter.com/detailspec.html
i had a 1990 mustang coupe with edlebrock heads f-303 cam edel.rpm intake 650 dbpumper 3.73 gears i had bought a tci breakaway convertor 11inch 2500 stall and i returned it after talkinh to the guys from ptc convertors and he said the 11 inch wasnt enough for a 302 becasue of the low torque .they recommend a 10 inch convertor which was 3200 average rating. my advie is get a 10 inch convertor you will see a night and day difference,i also know a friend witha a nice little maverick 302 with around 400 horse they had the 11 inch b&m convertor same one you have and went too a 10 inch 3500 rated convertor and it is a reall tire smoker no traction at all they love the difference
converters. They're like camshafts in a way. Each combo is different and will require a different one. This is where "off the shelf" means "slow" or "not optimal". The best thing to do when choosing a converter is to call someone who knows them. TCI makes decent converters but I tend to use a local guy. Have also used BTE with decent success. No matter what company you use, be prepared to pull it out at least once to have them either freshen it up or re-do it to "fit" your combo a little better. A couple things aren't always understood. Stall speed. Stall speed is an important part of a converter-but it's not THE most important part. There is also diameter. Fin angle. Stator. Sprag or no sprag. All these things work together to optimize what you are working with-and trust me-if these things don't work together, you'll either be driving through the converter or you'll have a slug at the line. But when it does work correctly it'll make a mediocre engine perform great with your car. IOW, the right converter will make or break your race car (or street car for that matter...). Stators come in different configurations. Usually the C stator is the most aggressive but it isn't as efficient downtrack which is why we don't see them used much in a spragless configuration. But for a small cubic inch engine, the C combined with a sprag can help the car get moving...and again, a GOOD converter guy will know this and point you in the right direction. Diameter works with fin angles to achieve the greatest efficiency. Generally speaking the smaller the diameter the greater the stall speed potential. You can make a 11" converter stall 4000 RPM but it tends to overheat the fluid. Conversely you can make an 8" converter stall 3500 but again, it's not quite optimum. I have found web information showing how converters work...don't have any particular sites on my brain at the moment but a quick search will find it if anyone's interested. Converters are one of those things that just picking one out of a catalog will get you close-but if you're like me and don't know much about them, it's best left to those who do. The company I use is fairly local-which saves shipping time and cost. And he's not a large company so he doesn't have a huge backlog usually. I actually had one of his converters in my car for years and it was showing signs of failure. I called another company and had them build me a new one which was supposed to be better, and it was to an extent. Original converter was a 9.5" billet cover 5500 stall sprag converter. Car was running 6.oh's and low teens. It was failing and I had an 8" spragless built for it. Put it in and used it a while and I like the spragless...more consistent but it didn't pick up any as I'd hope it would. In meantime I had the local guy rebuild the original converter and told him that I'd like to pick it up a little at the starting line (it was slightly lazy). A day or two later he called & said it was done so I made the trip down there, and later I put it in. It actually stalls 5900-exactly what I told him I needed-and it picked the car up about a tenth and a half (.15) in the 1/8...AND 2 mph which is unheard of with a spragless. Impressed to say the least. But that day it ran a string of 5.95's all at 115 mph. For such a small company I am totally impressed-he ain't cheap but when it comes to converters, you get what you pay for. Still have the 8" in the shed but I need to send it back in & have them pull the fin angle back to about +150 which should get the stall speed back around 5900-right where I need it. Currently it does have a sprag in it which outta help the MPH some and also has a C stator which should help it get out of the hole not that the current one is lazy by any means. Also if you race a lot it's a good idea to have the converters cut open about once a year for freshen up. They aren't too bad priced for a tune up unless something is broken...if it's just freshen up and replace the bearings, usually about $150 or less. If you have to replace the sprag, stator or pump it can get more expensive. BTW the guy I use is Bill Dowdy Converters out of Pine Bluff, Ar. Have also used BTE and TCI. BTE did me right with a free one time stall speed adjustment which I took advantage of. I belive Bill does the same thing. The TCI unit we got was an off-the-shelf job (like a saturday night special 3000) and it did it's job. It actually worked great in the turbo '74 Maverick but for a NA 302, it wasn't what we hoped for. Also used Fairbanks with good success. Both the Fairbanks, the TCI, and the PTC we got all eventually got rebuilt by Dowdy if that tells you anything. The PTC served us well too but I really didn't care for their customer service at that time. maybe things have changed since then-after all-it's been about 10 years or more. Whatever you do, don't just go shelf shopping for converters. There's better ways to spend your money and get a better product and ultimately a better performing car. Speaking from experience.....
im running a boss hog converter from acc performance. they are decently priced and i have gotten great performance out of it. they will also rebuild and restall it to your needs for life for 45 - 65 dollars.
john. looking at your specs, your carb is way too big for the rest of your parts. that carb wont have that much low end power. switching to a 500-600 cfm carb should help your 60 ft time also.
i run a rev maxx conv. custom built for my car cost less than 400.00 i 1.50 flat 60 ft with the wheels a ft in the air on bf goodrich drag radials, we had a 8 inch conv. this 9.5 60fts better and runs cooler , and is a great street conv., we went from 11 mpg to 13 with the conv. change also, i have there info if your interested, they warrenty also all there conv.
