I have a C4 buttoned to a SBF with 1-3/4" Primaries Super Competition 6208 headers, and the 3/8" header spacers. Surrounding area around the top starter bolt is VERY tight. Even a '94 Mustang Mini Starter isn't working with my particular combo (although I've 'massaged' the #4 tube). Anyone else running this combo? What starter are you using? -or- Any recommendation on a semi-affordable aftermarket starter made to fit in tight places? Thanks, guys. Getting there! (still )
Rick, Im using the same headers on my 347 as you are but using a manual trans. After buying and sending back a few mini starters to jegs and summit I tried the Ford racing mini starter. I went with the stronger one for the compression that I have and it fits great with no modifications to the headers. fordracing.com Hope this helps, Eric
We use a CVR protorque....used to be sold by Jegs and was about the only thing that would fit. "Clockable" too so you can rotate it however you need it. Don't know if they still sell 'em or not, but might be worth a look-see.
Thanks for the information guys. After more researching (since I posted), I found that a lot of racers are using the same starter I was using a '92 (edited year) Mustang Mini-Starter. Also, I found out that one flange (surrounding the top bolt) broke off the starter - thus causing the horrible sound when cranking. I'd ground the lobe down a little to clear the header. I just didn't dimple the header quite enough. I will try massaging the header tube a little more and put another one on today. If that doesn't work, I'll probably look into the CVR's.
I need to get an aftermarket starter too. I go through at least 3 starters per year. Compression kills. I usually get applause at the parts houses when they test my starters..... Good luck Mr. Rick. Preston
Hey Guys, Is This Header Working With No Tower Mods?? I Need Some Bad 336 11.4 Comp. Canfields, Solid Roller
Rick, my setup is the same as yours and i'm running the ford motorsport mini starter. (non-gear reduction) I had to grind on the bellhousing to clear for that tube that you're talking about but didn't make any modifications to the starter. i'm using an allen head bolt to make it easier to get access to. Let me know if you need a picture. I"ve been running it this way for some time with no problems.
They do work with little or no shock tower modifications.....I had to clearance a spot about the size of a quarter on each tower......
Thanks Cometgt, I've Been Looking At These Headers But No One New If They Fit, Thats What I'll Get! Anyplace Cheaper Than Jeg's Or Summit? Thanks Much!!!!!
Jegs and Summit are probably your best bet, they seem to beat most people's prices. One thing to remember, if you are going for the ceramic coating, don't get Hooker's coating......order them directly from JET HOT, better coating and similar price.....
I went to VatoZone and bought a new 1992 (correction on year) Mini-Starter. It seems to be working okay so far. Steven - if you use these headers you need to procure a couple of 3/8" thick (I believe) spacers to go between the headers and the heads. You can do a seach on the board to find the part numbers and vendor for them (somewhere in CA). Seems like the total for these headers and spacers was around $700. :confused:
Rick Are You Out There That Or Someone That Could Tell Me About The Header Spacers On 6208 Hooker Headers? What Are They For? Why Do You Need Them
You need the spacers because the headers will not work on a 302 block without them........those headers are designed for a 351W block and since the deck height is shorter on the 302 block it causes the headers to sit against the block, the spacers space the headers out away from the block but still gives you enough room to run them with stock shock towers. If you would spend some time searching past threads you will find all this information!
