This has probably been asked many times, but the search turned up crap for me. I have a mostly stock 302, 1974. Edelbrock 289 intake, Edel 600 cfm Performer carb, dual exhaust with glasspacks, otherwise stock. I will eventually put aluminum heads on it, and probably stroke it a bit to 330-something. And headers. For now, what would be a good cam? I would like to replace the cam, add headers, and maybe put on new heads this summer, but with cam being the cheapest, will start with that. Any suggestions, comments, arguments, put-downs, or insults would be greatly appreciated. Scott
I've got a 74 Comet, 302, Edel 289 intake, 600cfm Holley then 600cfm Autolite 4100, Hooker long tubes, dual glass packs, etc... same setup from what info you've given... The single best bang for the buck from this point is headers. Any cam you get will be limited by the pathetic factory exhaust manifolds. Nearly any camshaft would be limited by the low compression of the 74 model 302. The Edel 2122 (whatever the partnumber is), matching cam to the Performer 289 intake, is a decent cam for a low compression engine, however it will still be a weaker setup than a stock engine with long tube headers and a decent exhaust.
I have the Edelbrock catalog, and they have a "package" of parts that go with the Performer 289 intake. Would that be the best way to go? The Performer package consists of cam 2122, performer heads, and manifold. They are talking about 310 ft/lbs torque (I would guess 330 or 350HP). Would this happen with the 74 block? More detail into what I want... A weekend driver car, that will run on the road without stalling. When I start it up, the neighbors will wake up and cuss. Then say "dude, that car sounds sweet!" A bit of lope, but not too much. I will eventually correct the compression, probably to 9:1 or 10:1. 92 octane. My dad used to have a jet boat with 455 or 454 olds engine. I want that sound, even if I never get that horsepower. I would like to eventually get 350 HP, and would like to not have to change the cam again. Am I dreaming, or can I do this with one cam change?
You should be able to get that "lope"and still be able to drive it daily...Years ago I had a '74 grabber I ran a torker 289 with a Crane Fireball II cam, stock heads( I did put fresh springs in it though) ran very well and gave me about 19-20 mpg hwy (if I remember the cams specs were something like .484" lift with a 280 or 290 duration(that was advertised though dont remember what it was @ 50 lift) stock C-4 and stock converter
but yes the lope and snappiness(is that a word) werent fully realizes till the headers and dual exhaust came
So, I basically cannot "overcam" my car in it's current configuration? I just won't be getting all of the power that the cam can produce until I replace all the other components?
I would say for the set up you have now and if you add headers I would go with a 270 comp cam or if like it loppy 280 comp cam. just my
I ran an Erson E210421 if memory serves me right. Good cam. I ran it on a couple different combos, first was a 9:1 302, performer intake, hedman hedders...and factory heads ('70-something, stockers). Loped like crazy, but sounded good...and ran respectable. Later on, I changed engines, went with a low compression forged piston turbo engine (still 302") and used the same cam. Off boost it was a turd, but when it came on, it was ON. I believe it was 292 advertised duration and .504" lift. Sounded great and was cheap too at less than $80. But that was over 10 years ago, so the prices have probably come way up. Seems like anything made of metal has skyrocketed lately.
Get something around 215-220 duration at .050". Keep it single pattern... (both intake and exhaust duration/lift the same) Figure on using this cam now, and possibly another when you build a stroker or more radical version of what you have now. Get headers ASAP. Some regular long tube headers will work fine. You don't need anything fancy. Headers will be more 'bang for the buck' than cam at this point. However you could do either or both in any order you like for your combo. Just make sure your engine is not too tired. If it is getting worn, headers will still help you, but a cam might not function it's best. Personally, I like a cam with 218 @ .050" for a mild engine, lopes and has plenty of throttle response. I used a 212, 218, and 224 in mild 302s and found the 218 just right. The 212 was too small, the 224 too big. These are Comp cams of course, but the numbers are fairly common among manufacturers. You can go more aggressive than a Performer intake on a near stock 302. I highly recommend it. The Performer is way to little IMO. Try a Stealth or Edelbrock F4B. They are perfect for a mild SBF. The F4B is no longer made under that name, but you can still get the same intake from FMS if you don't want to search ebay or swap meets. Edelbrock cams have some decent grinds, BUT: They are made by TRW, not Edelbrock. Therefore you can get them cheaper without the middle man. Summit sells the same cams as their "house" grinds. PAW used to sell TRW cams, as well, dirt cheap. So, just order up a Summit cam, with free shipping, for a lot less dough. I think one of those is around 218 duration... whatever the Edelbrock is, same cam. You never told us your gear though... That will have a huge difference on how your engine reacts to the mods. If you have stock 3.00 gears and a stock converter, don't go over the 218 duration. You could stretch it to 224 without a stall converter, but your car will run doggy without some gears. If you try the Comp 280 as suggested in an earlier post, you will have to run a stall converter for your car to run properly day to day. The 280 is 230 duration at .050". Good luck Dave
A 268-274 is about as big as you can get with a stock converter. In current form it should be a pretty good match for your edelbrock 289, headers and 600 carb. I am running a 266 in mine. Check out my time slip and combination in the timeslip database. New heads and stroker you will probably want to run a different cam anyway. Cleaver
Gotta be careful with a stock 74 engine. 8:1 compression ratio cuts down the cam choices signifigantly. If you go much over a 270 duration cam it will perform worse than it does now.
OK, a question I have asked on other forums...how can I increase my compression other than milling the block? I have looked into thinner heat gaskets, possibly 1 or 2 steel shims. Other than replacing rods and pistons, or milling the block, what can I do? I have this psychological block to rebuilding an engine that runs great. So, to rephrase my question, what is the best cam I can put in THIS engine, to amp it up before the rebuild? I think I can get 30,000 miles before a rebuild, so how can I amp the stock engine up before that time, for maximum HP?
I would suggest a Summit cam AND lifter kit part # SUM-K3600 ($82.95) it will work well with the rest of your current combo, has a very slight lope at Idle. and you will like the way it wakes up the way the car runs now. 71gold (Frank) has this cam in his car and has been happy with it (his combo is much like yours). Basic Operating RPM Range:1,500-4,000 RPM Intake Duration 050 inch Lift:204 Exhaust Duration 050 inch Lift:214 Duration at 050 inch Lift:204 int./214 exh.Advertised Intake Duration:262 Advertised Exhaust Duration:272 Advertised Duration:262 int./272 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.448Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.472 Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.448 int./0.472 exh. liftLobe Separation (degrees):112 Click the link below to see it... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DK3600&N=304742+4294908331+4294840126&autoview=sku
