valve cover torque spec

Discussion in 'Technical' started by vvr210, Jul 15, 2014.

  1. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    Im replacing the valve cover gaskets and was wondering if anyone knew the bolt tightening sequence as well as the torque spec. Thanks
     
  2. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    Just barley snug with a hand held nutdriver (screwdriver with a socket on the end).

    If they are to tight...you will squeeze out the gasket.

    Not very technical....I know. :D
     
  3. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    Works for me :thumbs2: Any preferred sequence on the tightening?
     
  4. COMETIZED

    COMETIZED Member

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    Tightening Torque

    When tightening " without " a torque wrench it's sometimes helpful to tighten the bolt with your LEFT hand if you're a righty .. and vise versa . Use the weak hand and you'll exert less force in this critical area.
    Cometized
    ( Chip )


     
  5. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    No real sequence. I would start in the center and work my way out.
     
  6. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    Ok thanks Craig
     
  7. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    Thanks for the tip (y)
     
  8. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    U will have to re-tighten them after a few heat cycles of the engine. That has always been the case for me.
     
  9. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    depends on the gasket material...:yup:
     
  10. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    X 2. :thumbs2: With Felpro's newer cork, they have steel grommets at the holes to limit the compression of the gasket, this prevents the gasket and the valve cover rails from being distorted. I use a 1/4" drive ratchet to tighten the bolts, holding the top of the ratchet in the palm of my hand and getting them "wrist tight".
     
  11. simple man

    simple man Member

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    No matter what type you use, I've found that 2 fingers and a thumb with a nutdriver is good. If you get some seepage after a while, you can always snug them a teense more. It's much easier to snug a teense more, than to have to change a gasket due to cranking down on the bolts! I've seen folks actually bend the valve cover by tightening too tight! :)
     
  12. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    They were Fel Pro gaskets with the steel grommets. The bolts heads required an allen wrench so I tightened them up hand tight.Ive been driving for two days now and no leaks so ill check in couple weeks to see if I have to tighten them up again. Thanks for all the replies guys.

    Since the valve covers were off I decided to clean them up

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    I also took a picture of the casting code on the heads. Does anyone know if they are stock?

    It read 9M29 with a B above it. The other side has a 302
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2014
  14. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    That's the date code. 9M29 translates to December 29, 1969, making them 1970 model year castings. Probably C9TE castings. You're using FelPro's steel reinforced silicone gaskets, not the steel grommet cork. The only thing you'd need worry about are snapping the cover bolts by torqueing them too tight. You cannot over torque those gaskets, period.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2014
  15. vvr210

    vvr210 Member

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    Makes sense the casting code on the engine block said its a 69 302
     

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