Hello there motor gurus! If you were building a stroker motor from 302, wich should reach +350 hp, what kit would you use? Also aluminium heads are on the list. Camshaft, bearings, intake etc. etc. My buddy is building a '70 fb mustang and this is going in to it. Thanks already ! And if this is too wide question, i understand that.
If he can use a roller 351, that would be nice.....But I imagine engines are hard to come by over there? I would love a mild 408 personally, but any stroker is fairly beyond my budget.
Motors are not a problem over here we can get about anything we need. In this case, my buddy has a 302 and he wants to build that one. I presume that it is older one, not a roller block.
Tell your friend to build a 351w stroker for his 70 Mustang, take advantage of larger engine compartment than our Mav/Comet. Cost wise the same to build 302 or 351w stroker, so better to build 351w, stronger motor and most bolt on parts from 302 will fit on 351 w, headers, same bell housing, flex/flywheel, even aluminum heads! A stroked out 351/408w is one of the best! I will post more information later on why he should build a 351w stroker over a 302. David
Now you have a point there. I need to talk with my friend that is it possible to get 351w and start from there. Basically everything needs to be redone anyways. But if we start working with 351w, is that stroker kit so necessary anymore to reach that +350 hp...?
If your friend is only looking at 350 HP, the 302 can be built up to get a "reliable" 350 hp! You can buy "turn the key" crate motors that put out the horsepower he is looking for, with warranty and be done with it! Do a little research to see which is the most cost efficient for Finland..........good luck! Here is great info on 351W stroker.......... http://www.badasscars.com/index.cfm...category_id=13/home_id=3/mode=prod/prd104.htm Also, 70 Mustangs could be ordered with 351W, so plenty of room in the engine compartment! Hey, they even came with the Boss 429! Although Car Kraft? Was actually contracted to do the installation as shock towers had to be cut back to shoehorn the Boss 429..... David
Thanks for all the info, David! That badass info was a eyeopener! A whole new motor is one option, but: shipping in USA, what is it, about $100-200, shipping it to Finland about $400-500 plus taxes from everything is 24%. So, if the turn key-engine costs about $4000 + shipping in US + shipping to Finland + taxes + shipping in Finland = total ~$6000. Compairing it to building one in Finland : 302 block allready exists. We need stroker kit, bearings, intake, headers, carb, aluminium heads, what else? Gaskets and misc. stuff. What does it cost? And of course the machining of old block, my guess is about $1000 if done properly. Can you tell me a prices on a build?
If budget is part of the equation and 350+ HP is the target, no point in your friend throwing his money away. Just rebuild a stock stroke 351W . I suggest a 351W as opposed to the more rare 351 Cleveland because there is more aftermarket support for the Windsor. Spend the money he would have invested in a stroker kit on a better set of heads i.e. Trick Flow or AFR. The stock stroke 351s already have more cubic inches than any stock block 302 stroker you can build. A 0.030 over 351 is 357ci compared to the largest stock block 302 stroker's 347/349ci. With the right CHI on the 351 he will be making an easy 400HP and big torque. If your friend wants to reuse a 351s stock pistons go with a set of TF heads to allow for proper valve to piston clearance. More money saved. Otherwise purchase a set of pistons to match heads and oversized valves. A set of TF heads are about $1,700 - $1,800, another $300 - $400 on a cam kit, $200 - $300 for a good intake and another $350 - $500 on a carburetor. A 351W engine rebuild kit is about $200- $300 plus whatever it costs in Finland to machine the engine block. A good set of stud roller rockers to match the cam profile will also be required, $200 - $300. Any dress-up items should also be considered. Remember there are always miscellaneous parts like a new roller timing chain, oil pump, head bolts, etc. What I provided is a list of parts and their price ranges. Just matching the correct parts will be a big challenge! Everything has to work together. Has your friend ever rebuilt an engine? If not, there is a lot of money here at risk for a novice builder. That is where as previously suggested, a crate engine comes into play.
Hotrock has some good advice. I replaced a dynoyed 340 horse 302 with a stock stroke 30 over AFR headed 351w no dynoyed numbers on 351 but the power and torque are way past the 302 no comparison. As Hotrock stated plan your build before you start so you wind up with parts that compliment each other, I have seen to many buddies just throw parts at a build and they are usually disappointed.
Thanks guys, I appreciate all your toughts on this. I will try to talk my friend over for a 351w, will see what will be the result. I agree on that it has to be planned very precisely what to do, before you do anything. As this is not my project, im not going to stress about it. I just promised to my friend to get some info about different options. Thank god maverick has such a small engine compartment, so I dont need to get involved swapping 302 to 351 (and if it fits, please dont let me know )
A gt40 engine out of an explorer with a cam would probably be real close to goal as long as it had the right intake and carb. Some head work work probably get it there. But, it would be easier with a 351.
OK I won't tell you a 351 does fit in a Maverick. Tight but fits without mods. For a Mustang that could be ordered with a 390 or 428, the 351 is almost a no brainer. Ordered, not actually. The 2bbl 351W was substituted when supplies of the 2bbl Cleveland were short. Was no substitution of 4bbl engines or 2bbl in the Torino. Ford prepared for the substitution at beginning of model year.
If he decides to go 351 it makes absolutely no sense whatsoever to NOT put a cheap cast stroker crank in that engine vs machining factory parts. 383 or 408 would barely cost more than reworking factory parts. The other thing people get far too caught up on is PEAK power numbers. For a race only deal.. sure.. add gear and it'll usually ET quicker. But for a heavy non-gutted street car AVERAGE POWER is what you should shoot for. IOW, a motor that makes 350 horse over a 3,000 rpm spread will accelerate the car faster and be much funner to drive than another motor that makes even slightly more peak power over a 1,000 rpm spread. The 1st combo will feel much larger and broader while the 2nd will feel smaller and peakier. Larger motors allow greater control over static compression ratio and allow more cam choices as well. If it fits the same and only costs a little extra?.. always build it bigger because once the shiny new wears off 9 out of 10 gearheads always want more. Just the nature of the beast.
I think a 408 would also add to re-sale value more than the other combos.....not that re-sale should dictate anything, but is icing on the cake.