Does anyone other than Fatman Fabrication make drop Spindles for our cars? Or maybe some that are interchangeable. I'm looking for 1" or 2" drop.
I have the Fatman spindles. They work. I had custom brackets made to allow me to fit 13" brakes. Otherwise you are limited to 11" stock replacement brakes. Why do you think you need Drop spindles? What are your goals?
So my upper a arm will sit inside my rims. Right now the ball joint barley hit my rim. Im putting a wider/rim tire combo on the front.
Fatman has a 2.5" drop. That's going to be to extreme I believe. My exhaust will be to close to the ground. Plus I would like to get 13" baer brakes which bolts to Granada or Mustang spindles.
This will work. However, the steering arm becomes the next problem. I have 18X9 wheels now with about 5.125 backspacing. I could add another .5" but it gets really tight to the steering arm. Per the Fatman site, this spindle is designed to work with the Granada 11" brakes. Maybe it will work with 13" Granada replacement brakes as well.
You are right. I did notice the steering arm also. The hub for the brakes pushes the wheel out 3/8" which will take up a little unneeded backspace. I would just hate to buy spindles that I can't use. I did find 1966 Mustang drop spindles but I was told they want fit my application.
Have you considered the natural clearancing affect that an Arning drop has? The more extreme drops improve matters even more but you need to be very cautious about ball joint bind and use a negative wedge kit. Get's pricy quickly when you add up the cost of modding stock parts. Could also look into these arms to gain additional clearance. Ball joint housings look way shorter than stock arms too. http://www.summitracing.com/newprod...dling-with-spc-performance-upper-control-arms
I have seen 1.5" drops but I didn't know it made a difference on the ball joint. I have never seen or heard of those arms. I will definitely do some research about them.
Not so much at the ball joint height itself.. but more in the angle of the arm as goes into the wheel. Especially useful for cars that may only rub during full rebound/droop as the arm angle increases and reduces wheel clearance. So, getting your wheel clearance right during suspension droop is most important as that's where your biggest interference potential will typically occur on these old cars suspensions. If the ball joint housing is already hitting during neutral/static ride height checks?.. then you likely have much bigger issues as it travels down and the arms angle increases.
Ahh come on... You know the ball joint/wheel scrub will greatly improve your cornering as it naturally brakes the unloaded inside front tire. LOL
