Idling rough / small backfire

Discussion in 'Technical' started by AugustB, Apr 25, 2017.

  1. AugustB

    AugustB Member

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    Hey everyone!

    I have a 1972 Ford Maverick with the original 250 CI engine in it. And when I bought it it had the original, 45 year old radiator in it, which had a really horrible crack.

    I got a new radiator today, and with it came an electric fan. I did the entire replacement and in the end decided to take the mechanical fan that was being spun by the engine, off of the car.

    After doing so I didn't touch the carb, non of my spark plugs got removed and the distributor cap is sitting exactly like it was before I started everything. But it idles really rough and does some occasional small bangs out of the exhaust when the car is on (idling and driving).

    Is it possible that by taking the mechanical fan off I upset the timing? And if so, would I advance it or retard it to fix these issues?
     
  2. AugustB

    AugustB Member

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    I think I should also point out that non of these things were happening previously to the installation of the fan. The car was running right as rain before that.
     
  3. Hotrock

    Hotrock Rick, an MCCI Member Supporting Member

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    Welcome to the site from northeast Ohio!!! :tiphat:

    I don't believe your fan removal would have done anything to your timing unless you loosened and rotated the distributor.

    Why did you say 'the distributor cap is sitting exactly as it was before"? Before what? Did you remove it or disconnect it from the distributor for some reason?

    What is the condition/age of the sparkplug wires? If they are cheap, old, brittle or corroded they may be your problem and require replacement.

    If your wires are questionable, I would just get a quality replacement at your local auto parts store. You might also consider replacing the cap and rotor while you are at it.
     
  4. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    check and see if a vac. line got pulled loose while installing the rad/fan.
     
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  5. AugustB

    AugustB Member

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    I mean't that the cap was sitting as it was before I pulled the old fan / put the new one on. :)

    The spark plugs and spark plug wires are new, I replaced them when I got the car (probably a few months to a year ago now.) :)

    I'm also on another forum where some people are saying that the issue could be that the car is running too rich, what's your opinion on this? o:
     
  6. AugustB

    AugustB Member

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    I'll make sure to do that today and get back to you when I get home! :D
     
  7. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    yeah that.. ^^^.. and also could have some crud that came up into the carbs bowl on the restart too. Also look at the distributors vac advance diaphragm hose and check that it holds vacuum at the pot itself.
     
  8. AugustB

    AugustB Member

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    Hey guys, I wanted to give you all an update!

    In short :
    The car is fixed!

    In long :
    The car is fixed! I had originally connected the positive cable for the fan to the run bar on my starter solenoid relay. After rewiring everything today to make sure I didn't have any shorts, I had decided to try connecting the positive cable to something else, and that something else being one of the fuses in the fuse box. :)

    After doing so, the fan spun up (actually faster than before) and the sputtering the engine was experiencing at high RPM's had stopped! :)

    I don't know why this would matter, but I'll give all of you guys an update this weekend after I drive it for a few days! Thank you guys for all of your help! :D
     
  9. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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  10. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    What fan control electronics do you have? What pos. cable are you running from the fuse box? Power to run the fan should be direct to the battery! Power to activiavte the fan relay can run from fused connection
     
  11. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Other than the battery connection on solenoid, everything else is off limits... The I terminal is the feed from resistor that drops voltage to coil, with load of fan connected you probably didn't have more than 3-4v feeding coil... Good way to damage harness, burn out the resistor or maybe set it on fire...

    If you know what you are doing, it's possible to connect a low current relay to I terminal to switch battery voltage, but actual voltage must be verified... Running the voltage may be low enough that relay coil drops out...
     
  12. AugustB

    AugustB Member

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    I don't have any sort of fan control connected, the electric fan is connected to a fuse that only turns on when the car is in accessory mode or when the engine is started.

    If you guys think I risk doing some damage here, let me know. I'm not too experienced with all of this and want to make sure I'm not hurting anything.
     
  13. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    i smell smoke...:yup:
     
  14. AugustB

    AugustB Member

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    Alright, so;
    the positive cable to the fuse box and negative to the battery is no good.
    And if I attach it to the starter solenoid relay the car starts stuttering.

    Where should I connect it then? :oops:
     
  15. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    here is a simple way... [​IMG]
     

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