Troubleshooting headache

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Rogue302, May 1, 2017.

  1. Rogue302

    Rogue302 Member

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    Hey guys. This last weekend i got my 302 registered and on the road. Cleaned the carb and drove it around for about 3 hours, running like a dream. It started sputtering when i got into my neighborhood and limped cutting out until it died coasting into my driveway. 3 days later and it wont start and idle. I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT HAPPENED. Im getting spark at the coil, distributor and plugs. New fuel pump delivering 6ish psi.
    Clean and rebuilt holley 4160
    Obv good compression.
    Replaced the ground from battery to motor.
    Plugs look good.
    I cant for the life of me figure out why it ran 100% one second and now wont at all.
    It turns over and almost wants to start but sounds like a bad misfire and or timing way off. (Not moved since it ran fine)

    Any ideas and suggestions are much appreciated. Im pulling my hair out at this point.
     
  2. groberts101

    groberts101 Member

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    Confirm timing numbers and if all good pull the carb off and check for debri. If there is debri in bowls you may have sediment in the tank and lines.
     
  3. Rogue302

    Rogue302 Member

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    Thanks, ill check the timing. The tank, sending unit, line with inline filter, pump and carb are all new/clean within the last week.
     
  4. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    Check the fuel filter and see that the choke isn't shutting off the airflow.
     
  5. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Did you replace all the rubber fuel lines??? I have seen plenty of neoprene/rubber bits in float bowls/ filters over the years. They usually show up right after a major fuel system repair...Those old rubber lines deterriorate over time...Especially with the ethanol blended fuels you see today. Twisting those old hoses on and off of pickups and fuel pumps breaks little bits off em and sends em to the filter/float bowls. Definitely check mechanical timing first and be certain its correct.
     
  6. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    squritting a little gas in the carb will tell you if it's a fuel issue.
     
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  7. Rogue302

    Rogue302 Member

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    All of the rubber lines were replaced and the inline fuel filter is the clear glass type and i can see the filter is crystal clear and clean gas. I dont think its the carb. The accelerator pump squirts gas with the throttle and it wont even run on starter fluid.
    What other electrical is there besides the ground to motor, coil, distributor and plug/wires?
     
  8. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    If the ignition timing is off, the timing chain may have jumped a tooth or two...

    Can you verify timing setting with a light while cranking???
     
  9. Rogue302

    Rogue302 Member

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    Yeah im currently trying to get my hands on a timing light
     
  10. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    Don't need a timing light to verify mechanical timing...Pull #1 spark plug, install finger/thumb to block hole (A Helper is a good idea if you don't have a compression tester) Note location of #1 plug wire on dist cap...Remove cap...Turn engine by hand (Breaker bar/ratchet) Until you get a good push/puff of air from that plugged hole. Look at where the timing mark on the balancer is in relation to the pointer. Should be pretty close to TDC...Now, is the rotor pointing to the #1 plug wire on the cap??? Sneak up on that TDC mark till its dead on. Rotor should be dead on too. If not...Chain jumped...Or dist gear spun on shaft. (Make sure rotor is turning with the crank as you turn the engine over)
    NOTE: You want the ignition to be off while you are doing this. Unless you like getting zapped of course...Good luck!!!
     
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  11. baddad457

    baddad457 Member

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    better yet, rotate the crank back and forth using a breaker bar and 15/16" socket on the crank while watching the rotor for movement, if there's excessive slack in the timing set, you'll see it in movement (or not) between the breaker bar and rotor
     
  12. Rogue302

    Rogue302 Member

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    Okay, so tonight i checked the timing...
    When cylinder #1 is at TDC, the balancer marks aren't even close to the pointer! The rotor on the distributor is kinda close to #1 but a bit behind. Somethings pretty effed up with my timing chain and sprocket. Glad to finally know where my problem is. Now to find out why...
    So i guess i should start with removing the water pump and timing cover.
     
  13. Rogue302

    Rogue302 Member

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    Just my luck this happens on the day i get her on the road, and after driving fine alll day and dying in a second.
     
  14. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    If balancer is way off at TDC You may have a balancer that's slipped and no longer accurate. Be certain #1 is at TDC on the compression stroke...
    Considering age and potential mileage on car...Most likely a bad T ' chain. Pretty common for em to fail around 70 to 80 k miles...
     
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  15. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    turn the crank another 180 degrees and see if it lines up any closer.
     

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