Starting Problems

Discussion in 'Technical' started by Mlover, Oct 30, 2017.

  1. Mlover

    Mlover Member

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    Hello I seemed to have encountered another problem. Today as I was leaving I attempt to turn on my car and it turned on fine. I get to the gas station and as I attempt to turn it on to claim my spot it doesn't start. I periodically turned the keys to try and see if it would start but it doesn't. It make a small click noise on some occasions in the engine compartment (closer to the passenger side) but did not turn over. Finally after about 10 mins it randomly turns on slowly but once it started turning it seemed fine I guess. I decided to go home (did not fill up to not turn off the car again) and after parking it at home I tried to start it again to see if it would start and it turned on fine??

    I know the battery is not the issue because just last week my car completely died on me at school (no dash lights or any kind of power) and i went to go get the battery tested and charged. Battery tested okay. My alternator was replaced somewhat not too long ago but will test it.

    I was reading on another post about someone having issues with the starter and the starter solenoid. They mentioned something about voltage drop testing but not sure how to do this or if I could do this myself? Is the starter solenoid and the starter just a simple remove/replace or do I have to do anything else? Also any tips on removing the starter? I have a starter sitting around which I couldn't replace due to not being able to remove one of the bolts (pretty sure it was the bottom bolt). Thanks in advance
     
  2. Dan Starnes

    Dan Starnes Original owner

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    I think your battery terminals need cleaned.
     
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  3. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    A single click with key turned to start indicates the solenoid engaged but starter did not... This could be battery cable(s) issue but also the solenoid, it's connections, starter cable and starter are suspect... Multiple clicks(chattering) with key at start indicates low voltage, check both ends of battery cables and condition of battery...
     
  4. Maverick Dude

    Maverick Dude Member

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    You mentioned you had the battery out. Make sure your battery cables are tight on the terminals.

    MD
     
  5. Doug

    Doug Member

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    I find sometimes you hear the solenoid click but that doesn't mean 12 volts is going to starter . Turn on you headlights and try to turn engine over . If the lights go out then you have a bad connection . If they dim but stay on then starter is probably gone
     
  6. bomrat

    bomrat Member

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    a failing starter can have these issues. bad brushes in the starter. bad connections to the starter / bad grounding.
     
  7. jasonwthompson

    jasonwthompson Member

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    I had a starter at one time that would work fine until it got warm from the engine, at which time it would turn slowly or not at all. Once everything cooled down, it was ready to go again. Ahh, good times.
     
  8. Mlover

    Mlover Member

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    Update: Hey guys thanks for everyone's input but I think my problem just got worst. So I decided to swap out the alternator (failed test) and I noticed one of the back connections seemed like it had a burnt mark damage. As I replaced the alternator I noticed that my positive battery cable's tip (the end that connects to battery) had started to melt so I went and replaced that, as well as the starter solenoid. Car worked fine however the next day I got the alt light on the dash so I assumed it was the voltage regulator and went to inspect that. When I was looking at it and the cables around it, IT STARTED TO SMOKE ON ME. I quickly unplugged the battery but burn damaged was done to the voltage regulator box and the cables that connect to it. My question now is which cable harness do I need to replace these cables, and how difficult is it to rewire a maverick? Thanks
     
  9. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    with me any one of these has me change all three...voltage regulator, alt.and battery.
     
  10. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Yeah but most of us ain't gonna spend 3x the money necessary for a actual repair...

    Likely problem is due to bad insulation on the wiring in alternator harness, no amount of batteries, alternators, LED dash lamps, rear bumper bolts, ect is going to fix that...
     
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  11. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    if that's what it was...after the "smoke job" it could have that problem also.
    twice one went out and took the other two with it. once I tried replacing one at a time and they kept taking the good part out. it may have been I started with the wrong bad part first...:huh:
     
  12. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    That must have been some of your Generic Motors stuff???

    Other than shorted rectifiers inside alternator that takes out the fuse link, in 51+ years I'm yet to see one of the components you mentioned damage the next... Oh sure a bad regulator can cause a overcharge condition that boils battery dry, BUT if you are aware that headlights are now like flame throwers, or blinkers are rattling like a machine gun it should be obvious...

    One evening in later '70s wife was coming down street in the '70 Galaxie 500 and a buddy says you car sure has good lights... I said they ain't supposed to be that good, something has to be wrong...

    Yep was charging 16v...
     
  13. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I ditched all that harness and went to one wire 130 amp aftermarket alt., 7yrs. ago, no charging/starting issue and cleaner fender panel.
     
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  14. 71gold

    71gold Frank Cooper Supporting Member

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    nope...old Ford tech knowledge.
     

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