I wasn’t sure where to post this, but figured this would work. I have been agonizing over how to add additional gauges without it looking like a hack job and utilizing the factory gauge bezel. After much research I decided to go with a set of speedhut custom gauges. The 4” fit perfect in the stock instrument cluster. I’m using a gps Speedo/8k tac and shift light. The odometer part is pretty cool cuz it will log 60 ft/1/8 & 1/4 times and speeds thru the gps. It also has high beam and turn signal leds built in. The other gauge had volts, oil pressure, water temp, and factory sender compatible fuel gauge. Each one has a programmable warning light you can set. They are back lit and very customizable. I’m going to have work make me mounting brackets with a 3D printer, and I’ll post pictures when it’s wired up and installed.
If you check the website you have lots of choices when configuring the gauges, I thought the speedo should take a back seat. https://www.speedhut.com/
I’ll put together some info on how I mounted the gauges, in case anyone wants to do something similar.
Some info for anyone wanting to do something similar to this speed hut gauge installation. I sheared a piece of .050 thick 2024 aluminum from scrap at work. Dimensions I used were 12.5”x5.25”. I bought a 3.875” metal hole saw from amazon and measured, centered, and bored the two gauge holes. The gauges are held to the plate with a threaded collar that comes with the gauges. Next I drilled 6 each holes evenly around the perimeter of the gauges. Make sure you plan enough edge distance not to interfere with the gauge collar or any of the structural ribs in the gauge bezel. I deburred, radiused the corners, and painted the plate flat black. I used 6 ea 3/16” all thread button head screws with washer under the head and self locking nut to spread the load out against the fragile gauge bezel. Just snug the fasteners so the plate is secure, don’t over tighten them. The spacers I used between the gauge plate and the bezel are 11/16” long, that perfectly placed the gauges even with the bezel. The gauges as I configured them have what I wanted to display, I have another small lcd display that is hidden under the dash that will swing down and display other important information regarding the nitrous system when it’s needed. I removed the factory harness and removed all the wiring for systems or options I’m not using(was a LOT of wiring I removed). I cut, crimped, and installed solid pin sealed deutsch connectors connecting the new gauges to the original harness. I actually completely did away with the original fuse box and am using a marine type fused and bused aftermarket box. I had additional circuits and relays from the aftermarket components I built and mounted where the heater box used to be up under the dash. With a one wire alternator and the battery in the trunk I only have 5 wires from the original harness running to the front of the car. I routed these thru a new sealed deutsch firewall connector and harness that now runs completely out of sight through the left fender well. I am making the clips today to mount the gauge bezel assembly to the dash bezel. I will detail that when it’s complete. Below are some pictures for clarification, let me know if you have questions or need more detail. I plan to put all the stock controls, vent, etc back in the dash so it looks mostly stock except for the gauges and the switch panel where the radio will be. I do not plan to reinstall the tray. Please excuse the wiring it is a work in progress, everything will be routed, wrapped, and clamped when it’s done. Mike
Fabricated two small tabs and ended up using 4 each 6/32 studs cut to length which thread into the instrument cluster perfectly. Custom cut spacers to keep from putting stress on the instrument cluster or bezel. I just need to drill the clips and plate I made for a two blind rivets per clip. It appears to be very solid and I’m happy with how it turned out.
