1975 maverick starting problems

I am in computer information technology. Also my friend Matt said the very last thing he did was replace the carb. so everything should be good.

 

Carbs been sitting for 10 yrs...Needs a rebuild now...Probably full of rust and other foul things...

 

how do I find the right kit for it?

 

I went back and reread the whole thread.

Okay, good, that tells us two things for sure: (1) the ignition system worked/works, (2) the engine innards can support combustion. The condition of the electrical or mechanical is still unknown, both could be weak.

Good to know you have fuel at the carb/intake manifold; not our problem today. (Double-check: if the accelerator pump is doing its thing and squirting gas into the intake when you pump the gas pedal, you have fuel supply; no further investigation required now.

Does anyone know if crossing the polarity of the coil damages the solid-state ignition parts? If not, you can eliminate that as cause of the problems.

As Ike said, you need to replace the distributor cap, rotor, wires and spark plugs. Super important. When you are at the auto parts store, buy a spark plug socket and cheap multimeter. You will need both.

Whatever you do at this point, don't move the distributor. Because the distributor has not been moved since engine last "ran," you can eliminate timing as the cause of the no-start. Fewer variables the better.

I don't know how to troubleshoot one Duraspark ignition. And I don't think you can "hotwire" one at the coil like a car with points.

 

ok thanks for the info. my dad wants to try hotwire. and I will have to persuade him to replace the wires , plugs, and rotor. he thinks they are all good and he doesn't like playing with the distributor

 

Ain't got to be a dick. I was wondering because my dad thinks it is fine. I wanted to be able to show him it is cheap and won't take too long.

 

Have you posted a picture of the ignition module? Just curious on which one you have

 

dumb question I have for you. what does the ignition module look like?

 

You have not been paying attention, in a earlier post I described it's location & approx size.

 

Yeah I'm dumb. but you said left fender. so which left? that is the replacement voltage regulator. I may be dumb and not seen the one by the washer bottle let me look again

 

Car's left same as yours.

 

Do you have a picture of it and where it is? because I think I found it. I found a square box by the washer bottle but I don't know what is above it. I will have to take a picture later.

 

More pictures. Look for an aluminum box a bit bigger than a pack of cigarettes.

Conventionally, directions in a car assume you're sitting in the driver seat. To your right is the passenger fender, to your left is the drivers fender. When you standing in front of the car with the hood up, the drivers fender remains on the "left side of the car" even though it's now to your personal right.

And as long as we on the topic, there is the directionality of fasteners. Bolts tighten clockwise and loosen counterclockwise. Tightening a nut you're wanting to remove causes more mischief than you can imagine -- especially when you're tired and frustrated. There are no exceptions on Fords, except the odd lug nut on some F350s and some fan clutches (neither of which you need to be concerned about). Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty.

 

Ok. I was making sure I was looking at the right box. I think I have found it but don't know what is above it. easy way to explain it is it is the shape of a hair dryer.