393w overheating.

Discussion in 'Technical' started by 29EssexRat, Jun 18, 2021.

  1. 29EssexRat

    29EssexRat Member

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    Well, I'm currently in the process of putting a sn95 mustang radiator in (lots of cutting, not drop in), as I've ruled out as much as you. If you have the correct rotation waterpump, a fan shroud, and good air fuel ratio, I'd try a 2 or 3 row aluminum radiator. If you're running the original radiator, possible it's partially plugged.
     
  2. asudevil311

    asudevil311 Member

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    I have done both - 3 Core Aluminum Radiator as well as an electric fan with 2200 CFM. Still have a heating issue.
     
  3. 29EssexRat

    29EssexRat Member

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    Electric fan rotating the correct way? Check that the blades are oriented correctly, should be marked push/pull on one side. Headgasket orientation, water pump rotation, timing retarded, running lean. Didn't read past text, so sorry if repeat questions.
     
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  4. COMETIZED

    COMETIZED Member

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    Sounds like you may need a PUSHER .. A N D ... a PULLER ... I had this set up on several cars and the overheating stopped immediately . We go on the HOT ROD Power Tours , and some of the stops require a long wait getting INTO the grounds.. Our cars just idled on with the AC cranking all the while . No Problem .. If you've got a "tight-fitting" shroud and a good radiator you should see results . Just my two cents.. \

    Cometized
    Chip
     
  5. BigDog41364

    BigDog41364 Member

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    I was looking at your media photos. In the pic of of your motor, it looks like one of your heater hoses comes to a Tee right next to your distributor. What does the short hose run to?
     
  6. 29EssexRat

    29EssexRat Member

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    Mine would overheat while going 65mph. Don't believe an additional pusher fan would help in this case. But could see it being beneficial while idling, especially with A/C.
     
  7. Bryant

    Bryant forgot more than learned

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    I read the first page and jumped to the 4 page. Looks like you still have the heating up issue and plenty of others do too. I had it with my car. I have fought it through different stages of my build. I have learned a few things that really do help.
    1st, is air flow. The mavericks front shape seems to let lots of air push under the car. For a radiator to flow air through it, it needs a pressure difference from the front to the back. I believe that these cars push a lot of air under it and end up pressurizing the engine compartment. This reduces the air flow substantially through the radiator. I figured this out years ago when my car was Mashori's and we were going to the Silver state classic challenge. The car would get hot going freeway speeds. Had to be going over 80 and it would actually start to cool. We added a front air dam for the second year he went to get down force because the car was wanting to lift at 115mph. It worked. We also noticed some other unexpected things. The hood would lift at the cowl at 45mph and above. With the air dam, the hood actually would suck down. So with the air dam we stopped air from going under the car. This created low pressure under the car and now air was being pulled through the radiator and pushing down on the hood. So a front spoiler or air dam will help a lot.

    2nd, the radiator. The stock configuration radiator just is not the best. Im talking top to bottom tanks. In my first Maverick the original style radiator would run hot on the freeway. I changed it to a universal cross flow that would fit between the frame rails. That stopped that car from running hot.

    Now when I started doing track days, the car started getting hot doing road course. That's basically full load on the motor for 20 mins. I have a miziere electric water pump, the cross flow radiator from my old car in the car at this point. So now to deal with this level of heat loading I did 4 things. I got a new radiator, the same one, and had a radiator shop put dividers in the tanks to make it a triple pass. I put an oil cooler in. I put heat extractor vents into the hood and started running e85. With all that, the car runs at 180 on the streets and swings from 195-205 on a road course.

    I hope this info gives everybody and understanding of cooling in these cars and options to improve it.
     
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  8. 29EssexRat

    29EssexRat Member

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    Excellent information. I'm in the process of installing an aluminum cross flow radiator that sits on the frame rails. I questioned airflow across the radiator too during driving, but since mine would eventually overheat during idle, or not cool off at idle, I didn't give it much thought. Sounds like I should source a air dam too. Thank you!
     
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  9. Falcenac

    Falcenac Member

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    As Bryant suggested I would also consider a good oil cooler
     
  10. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    Unless your fan/cooler setup has changed since your original posting, this is what I see, And I run a BBF in a 68 Cougar, and a 331 stroker in my 66 Stang in 105 deg heat and have no problems. What type of rad hoses are you using? If ribbed, they hurt cooling water flow on both sides of the system. Yeah some love them and they work, but not very well. Just watch how water runs over the ribs in a culvert and tell me how smooth the water flows. Besides they reduce the hose size internally due to the ribs.
    The fan for the trans cooler is blocking air flow, you don't need it. The trans doesn't need that much cooling, since air flow takes over and cools the trans fluid. I know since I have a trans cooler and temp gauge and can watch the difference with a C-4 being driven by a 460. Just as I have an engine oil cooler and can watch the difference between idle and 70mph.
    You have a new WP, but do you have a standard one, or a high volumn one? Old trick back in the day was to use a AC, WP since they flow more water at lower speeds, (idle) then the standard ones did.
    Another thing is directing air flow. I tried the license plate in front of the grill on my 302 Comet GT and seen a big difference in cooling by removing the plate. Same as I did on my Stang and 68 Cougar. That and blocked the area above the grill and on the sides of the radiator, to force the air to flow into the radiator instead of over, around and everywhere else.
    If it doesn't cool at speeds, that means the air isn't flowing thru the radiator, is going somewhere else other then thru the radiator or air flow is being blocked by an object, (license plate, frontal fan, etc).
     

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    Last edited: Jul 29, 2022
  11. Jaybee

    Jaybee Member

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    That is great information. Regarding pressure under the car, I remember reading comments from a highway patrolman who was asked how he picked out the car that was speeding from others on the road. He said one of the signatures was that cars going in the 85mph range started to look nose high. That's the air building up underneath. If you look at cars prior to at least the mid 1970s, a whole bunch of them had a front valance that actually shoveled air UNDER the car. That includes Mavericks prior to 1973. The later cars don't have a valance, but there's also no air dam or other mechanism to prevent the air from getting underneath.
     
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  12. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    That's why I installed front spoilers and opened up the grill a little. Helps cooling and air flow a lot. Doesn't take much to feel the difference. Removing the front plate and it's bracket is a big thing to.
     

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