Project - BetterThanitWas

Discussion in 'Maverick/Comet Projects' started by plynch, Oct 25, 2021.

  1. plynch

    plynch Member

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    Wanted to crank it over. There's still tons to do, but sometimes you just need the inspiration.

    I got the carb back on, coil,1 wire alt, found an appropriate length belt to just run the crank, water pump, and alternator, (appropriate P/S hose still on order) filled oil, put some coolant in, ran a hose to bypass the heater box still in repair, popped old plugs on (bought new ones on a summit recommend months ago, and should've looked at them, they're the wrong fit). Realized with all the Vintage Air brackets, the original fuel pump hardline wouldn't fit, so I tried popping a hose on it, easy enough? Well I either stripped the hard line fitting, or cross threaded the fuel pump outlet, it'll take a quarter turn or so before it loosens back up, never tight. Great.

    That being said it does crank. However it won't turn over, and after priming the carb as I assume it's fuel, I'm certain I'm just missing something with the coil. Some of the wires are basically dust now, and colors are....well non existent or near it. I'm 100% sure it's a me thing, as this is the first time I'm putting it all back together. Checking old pictures I took for this very purpose, and wiring diagrams to get a better idea at what I'm missing. Maybe today I'll get it.
     
  2. plynch

    plynch Member

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    Hooked up a belt for the water pump, crank, alternator, finished what I needed with wiring for now, and hooked the fuel line from the pump back up. Poured some down her throat, poured a bit into the tank and....

    She cranked over! For a second... Fuel pump was leaking at the fitting, a lot. After fiddling with it for ages, I found out I cross threaded it somehow, the fitting and the pump end trashed. Fine. I bought a repro from the store, found a new fitting (1/2-20 inverted flare- impossible to get at any part's store I'm officially convinced), cut the old hardline at the fitting, re-flared with new fitting, hooked it all up....still leaking, same spot. Frustrating. Figured it was my flare job. I cut it higher at a straighter portion of the hard line, new fitting, flared, no go. Good grief.

    Thankfully the P/S and Compressor brackets are out of the way for all this. I'm sincerely considering buying an electric, bolting a cover on the pump inlet, and calling it done. Of course I'm sure that's easier said than done too.

    Good news is my overflow tank came today, so I mounted that. Progress somewhere is better than nowhere I guess.
     
  3. plynch

    plynch Member

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    Been a while! Trying not to get too on myself for not having more done as the warmer weather is upon us. I actually started a notebook dedicated to the progress of the restoration so I can timely document what happened and when. This'll be a general overview of what I can recall over the last 2 months.

    - Fixed fuel issue via pre bent/flared summit kit, still need to shorted hose, but for a later date when I'm done the 100 other things.
    - Broke the distributor primary wire trying to get it cranking, so replaced that.
    - Realized I bought the wrong style plugs months back, so re-purchased correct ones with the male connectors for what I can only assume is the OEM distributor.
    - bought fittings/installed new M/S and proportioning valve. More difficult than anticipated. After painstakingly bending and finding which fittings needed what from M/S to valve and valve to all the lines in the car, I realized you need a "proportioning valve tool" as is technically named, to BLEED the brakes. Didn't have one, so I jerry-rigged a small vacuum hose cap on the old switch from the distribution block. Sort-of worked, but removed as I realized I cross-threaded the pass-side brake line and adapter from the ebay brake kit. Lovely. Had to dig out the paperwork, and figure out what summit hose kit and adapter I had to purchase, not a lot of info on the kit papers but I pieced it together.
    new line came, made sure to hook it all up carefully and correctly, Whoopie! Time to bleed again, right? Nah. I tried the jerry-rigged vacuum cap again to allow the prop valve to bleed, this time on the new nylon/plastic switch from the ebay prop valve. Broke right off in the thing. Crap. Promptly bought a "tool" on ebay as I tried carefully digging out the plastic trash from inside the valve/switch area- to no avail. To boot, the "tool" was the wrong size. Many of them don't specify what thread size, and nor does my prop valve (which came with no documentation) So my brakes are sitting until I pony up for a Wolwood and do it right the second time, as I like to say.

    - Dynamat on the floor/firewall.
    - Purchased Summit seat brackets and sliders upon recommendation from another user here, very useful in figuring out how to use these non-Mav-mystery seats I was given and were never properly installed. However, I drilled wrong in the brackets, and the brackets are hardly long enough to stretch the 13" or so for the front to back spacing. More money wasted.
    - Went ahead and bought these; https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-sr200
    Just got them in. Much heftier, longer by an inch or two, give about 3/4" rise from 3" rise if I recall, and are slotted to accommodate my moronic measuring skills. Now the seats I have are a different story. Someone's drilled into them several times, and none of the holes fit the tracks, so I'm in the process of drilling them out. We'll see.

    - Half-mounted new tires on new rims. Went with 205/70-15, thin white walls, because I'm classy, right from Summit. I've used my HBF tire mounter successfully before, but the bead won't seal on these and I've had to resort to the YouTubes for tips, will try again soon, but useless until I bleed the brakes.

    - Finished spraying down all dash parts to my liking.
    - Cursed
    - Shook my head at my stupidity
    - "installed" package tray, although the foam piece beneath seems to be too thick, so I scratched it. Easy enough to remove so for another day. Regretting not purchasing one with pre-cut speaker holes.
    - Shook my head at windshield prices when the time comes
    - Got ribbed by the wife about when she'd get her spot in the garage back. (Mav on one side, stack of drywall in the other) Thankfully she doesn't mind.
    - Installed minisplit in garage area for comfort (Mr. Cool DIY is the way to go)

    To do: Tranny pan seal/ shaft seal most likely
    - seal kit on heater box/reinstall
    - Rug
    - Brakes/tires finish
    - windshield
    - seat install
    - rug
    - door seals
    - gas tank replace.
    - pretend it all works
     
  4. plynch

    plynch Member

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    Been a minute. Babies and soundproofing rehearsal space above garage take a lot of time.

    Finally mounted tires with the good 'ol starter spray around the bead, lit it and blew it up with air and they all sealed up nice to the rim. Last ditch effort with those suckers.

    Now a no-start issue. It was running rough then not at all. Primary wire from points distributor was frayed, then finally broke. Replaced it, then as I was going over adjusting points, it just wouldn't go. Long and short I realized the spring loaded stud inside sheered off. Not quite sure what it's called, but it was TOAST.

    Did some searching, couldn't really find anything for replacement parts. It was pretty old and crusty inside anyway, so I replaced with Pertronix distributor/Ignitor II along with Flamethrower II to say the hell with it. I really wanted to mess with points for my silly 30yr old brain at least for reference but alas.

    Replaced plug wires. Have new plugs but waiting for a tool to get to the tough-to-reach ones around the towers (so fun). I figured since it ran before, I'd find TDC to be extra sure, install dizzy and- nothing. It cranks, really wants to start, but won't fully turn over. It has on occasion, the idle rough, shake like a leaf then nothing. Two days going now I've been at it. I know I'm most certainly missing something, just gotta find what. Naturally been down the rabbit hole of no-starts on this forum and others. I think I'm getting a weak spark, (yellowish off new plug at #1 plug wire) although I've tried jumping it off a few 12v sources. To make matters worse, I found my battery charger toast, so I jumped it off the fiesta (oh yea, mint green) just to ensure it was nice and charged and still nothing. I'm no wiring guy and have read all about bypassing the resistor wire which I've found, but since I'm jumping off the solenoid terminal I was bypassing it? Not sure.

    Tomorrow's another day. Frustrating when there's so much more on it I'd rather be working on. Was hoping to get it finished up by late September, got my own wedding to go to and it'd be nice to go in style, but might not make it. Better safe than rushing it.
     
  5. plynch

    plynch Member

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    Watched some videos, tapped into a fuse and ran a new line for direct 12v in the RUN position. Specifically the bottom portion of the#4 on a 72 fuse block, power comes in through the top. #4 is warning lights, seatbelt buzzer etc. Started right up after that. Now it's smoking on the passenger side after idling for a minute or two. Can't tell much other than I hope it's just the valve cover leaking. Hopefully can find out more today.
     
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  6. Jaybee

    Jaybee Member

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    Sounds like progress to me.
     
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  7. plynch

    plynch Member

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    Ordered a 13/16 plug socket to try to get to #2, 3 , 6, 7 Tried one of those swivel handles they sell and no go so far, but they're probably seized on there pretty good. 13/16 deep impact with swivels or breaker bar or swearing hasn't made much progress. Hopefully a wrench around a proper plug socket will get 'em.

    Bought a bucket track set on ebay, turns out it's for the passenger side, 75 up only. Should be able to make it work over there with a new hole, but was looking for driver side.

    Not a lot of wins these days. Always tomorrow I guess.
     
  8. plynch

    plynch Member

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    Finally a few pictures. Not good ones, but pictures.

    My September goal came and went, which is fine, far too much to do. Travelled for a wedding, got married myself, other house projects, all project killers haha.

    Eventually after sitting a while, it developed a consistent smoke coming off the passenger side of the engine. I still can't tell if it was off the exhaust manifold or valve cover. Pure white, no scent of coolant, and never disappeared after idling a while and never seemed to come up to temp, but never wanted to have it run too long with the smoke. Then of course I pulled a rad hose and found this crap (see photo). It was pure water as I was previously dealing with leaks and didn't want antifreeze pissing everywhere. No real clue. So after heading down various forum holes, I've decided since the weather's turning, It would do some good to just pull it and really go through it, given it's probably never been taken apart.

    I've pulled most of the top end off in preparation, but waiting for the hoist to get into it further.

    So now I've got to source a hoist and stand, along with everything that goes with pulling a small block out. First time, and learning a ton. It's snowballed, but trying to stay on track. Dez the shop super does not approve.

    PXL_20220903_185309989.jpg PXL_20221028_224852803.MP.jpg
     
  9. rickyracer

    rickyracer Member

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    I see your supervisor is watching your every move. Pull the trans with it to and inspect it. Drain it first. The "creamy" stuff in the thermo housing doesn't look good.
     
  10. Jaybee

    Jaybee Member

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    Your pic is a little close to get a good look, but I don't think you need that bit atop the thermostat housing. I believe that's the thermostatic control for a dual diaphragm distributor. Looks like you're using an aftermarket distributor and a single diaphragm vacuum advance.
     
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