Ok, I pulled the tailshaft housing off and put on a gasket, something I did NOT do when I put in a new seal and bushing, and it has leaked there since. My pan is very wet, and I assume it is leaking, because once before, it leaked a little, and I re-tightened the bolts, and it leaked MUCH worse afterwards... Also, there appears to be a leak coming from either the Servo (A) or possibly where the fill tube comes into the top of the case, both in the very same location or area. Are either of these common leak areas? If so, how do I fix it...new servo, or do they make a gasket? Finally, what is the best method for installing the pan? Rubber gasket, cork gasket, or sealant? and what torque on the bolts? I don't want to do this again for a long time...I HATE messing with trans fluid...
there is a gasket for the servo.. and yes, the filler tube is a notorious area for leaks. the best gasket for trans is the flat cardboard style, and i put a very thin coating of sealant around all the bolt holes. it is leaking worse from where??
Cork gasket only on the pan. Install it DRY (no sealant!!). Make sure the pan is flat where the bolt holes are. Sometimes they'll get warped a little from years of overtightening. Easy fix for warped pan is to just tap it with a hammer until it's close. Doesn't have to be perfect. The reason I choose cork is because when they're installed dry and the bolts tightened up to 80-100 lb-in, the cork will swell up a little when fluid hits it and it will seal right up. The cardboard style gasket and the rubber gaskets won't seal very well if the pan isn't perfectly flat...and 99% of stock pans are NOT flat! Also, the dipstick tube has a o-ring on it which is really easy to get pushed out while installing the tube. A little vaseline on the o-ring and filler tube will help a lot when installing the tube into the case. As for the servo, you are talking about the intermediate servo, right? The one on the front? That one has a gasket AND o-ring. The o-ring goes in a groove on the servo cover and the gasket goes between the cover lip and the case; and that gasket is paper thin and tears easily. I usually don't see many Intermediate servo leaks unless the case is chipped/broke/cracked or the gasket installed improperly. Usually it's the low servo that leaks. The cover has a goofy o-ring that is supposed to seal it up and with a high performance valve body with increased line pressure, it's common to have the bolts ripped right out of the case on a cold morning in reverse. I actually did that exact same thing on a $2500/win race a while back...started it up in the morning, revved it a couple times and pulled it into reverse. Didn't make it 5 feet before I saw a trail of oil in front of me where it was leaking out of the low/reverse servo. Best part is, I dropped the trans at the track, put in some longer bolts and went a few rounds. I'd think twice before doing it again...but it was definitely a learning experience.
The thing I am calling the "servo" has a big letter A on it. It is right below the dipstick tube, which is why I am not sure if it is the servo or tube that is leaking. Luckily, I have solved the leak at the shift linkage (my original leak) and now the tailshaft is dry. As of yesterday, there was the leak at the servo/dipstick area, and the pan was leaking like crazy, and a slow drip at the tailshaft housing where the gasket was supposed to go. So, assuming that it is the dipstick that is leaking, could I get an o-ring for it and replace it, and if so, what is the procedure? Do I need to use a sealant on it or does it just press in? If the dipstick is leaking and the Servo typically does not, that would explain a good portion of the oil on that area... Thanks for the help guys
ditto what mavman said and oh hell no never ever use rtv on trans, the excess will squeeze out when the pan is tightened and it will get in the passages internally and block the passages and you develop problems shifting and all sorts of other problems that you will be unable to verify and repair
Couldn't find a cork gasket. And, they only sell gaskets with a new filter, so I bought a roll of cork and cut my own. Anna had a great idea to use a paper-hole puncher to cut the holes. I punched the hole then moved it a bit and punched a few more times taking little moon-shaped pieces out until the bolt went in without causing it to bend the gasket. Will install this afternoon. Still, what about the fill tube leak?
Inspect your fill tube where o-ring goes. Make sure it's round an not bent or marred. Coat new o-ring with Vaseline, wipe out tranny hole an coat that hole and install. No sealer just Vaseline. Light coatings.
The dipstick tube is just pushed into the tranny. There should be a bracket welded to the tube that has one of the bellhousing bolts going through it holding it in place.
i used the paper gasket because i have a new aluminum deep tranny pan.. i forgot to add that part be careful with the dipstick o-ring gasket.. i have cut a couple trying to get them in.. do not force it.. just wiggle it.. SLOWLY
No, it won't make it swell. Use it as a lube to assist insertion, keeps it from rolling or cutting. They do make a regular tranny lube, it's pure silicone if I am not mistaken. I've always used the Vaseline.
there is a paper type gasket. looks like thin cardboard/brown poster paper. they seal great & you will shear the bolt off before you can squeeze them out by overtightening. i know ATI has them. most places dont like them 'cause they cant be folded into a small box; it creates a crease which may eventually leak. keep an eye out & get some if you see them, for future use. or order some from ATI if you want. there is also a black composite type that can be folded that is very resistant to being squeezed out, but will if you work at it. actually i just posted this to get rid of the nastygram complaining that i havent posted anything recently. but you will have fewer leaks/squeezeout problems with the paper style pan gasket. jmho.
