I've been searching the forum for hydraulic clutch conversions and I've found only a couple with any info... One had a link to a list of parts w/ #'s titled "Hydraulic Clutch for $169" or something close, the other said he used parts from a S-10... Ok, so I'm looking for more info on this subject, does anyone know of which parts would work? Preferable w/ #'s, pics, etc. I wouldn't mind looking through junk yards but I work 7 days a week so I have very little time. Thanks. P.S. On the cheap is preferable, I know about the kit's which are sold for $400+ which is way out of my price range.
Your probably gonna have to make your own if you want on the cheap. Read up a bit on the subject here http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm It's oriented towards Jeeps, but the info applys here too.
Hi Dave, There are two different types of hydraulic clutches. The slave cylinder type...this is where the cylinder activates a stock style clutch fork and throwout bearing. These come in both push and pull varieties and are found on many stock applications. Then there is the hydraulic throwout bearing style from the aftermarket. These are made by McLeod or Howe or several other companies. These actually have everything installed within the bellhousing and the piston is actually part of the throwout bearing assembly. I've seen them priced from $160 to over $400. I had one of the McLeod ones in my drag Mustang some years back and I didn't care for it. The only way that I can describe it is that you lose peddle feel. I also think that the piston size on the clutch master cylinder could have played a big part in my dissatisfaction. I think that my piston was to big and my travel too short.
I'm thinking more about the slave style. I don't like the idea of having hydrolic fluid inside the bell with the clutch.
They make conversion kits for Mustangs. Should be the same as a Maverick. All the mustang supply houses carry them.
Any setups from other stock applications that would work? Does anyone know what the inside diameter of the whole where the cable goes through the bell housing on a stock 5.0 setup is? I found a "pull" type slave cylinder from Howe Racing that looks pretty compact. Also is it posible to have to much actuation on a release lever? Could to much actuation cause clutch damage? or is the diapham strong enought to just stop the movement when I has been disengaged as much as it can? Thank you.
I've never had any experience with the diaphram clutch in anything but stock applications. But I've heard that you can overtravel them, essentially ruining the spring. I'm a big fan of the long style clutch myself.
I've seen one slave cylinder kit for $180 that is of the pull type and all it uses is the whole for the cable on a T-5 bell... would that part of the bell be strong enough for long term use? I've also found some cheaper pull type slave cylinders from wilwood and another company but they have a bolt sticking out the other end which I would guess would have to be connected to a bracket or something and thus holding the slave cylinder in suspension of sorts... but of that type I haven't been able to find a picture of one in use to see how it should be properly set up.
Pull type slave cylinders require you to make up a mounting bracket behind the clutch fork so the cylinder can pull it rearward. There is already barely enough room back there in the tunnel for the shifter tabs, rods and crossmember. In my past stock cars, I've used a CNC push type cylinder with a bracket built and mounted in the space where the original clutch z-bar was with a home built bracket. You can also brace it with another bracket off of a bell housing bolt. Then you need to get a couple of AN fittings and a stainless braided hose (some even used a plastic line, if you can keep it away from the header heat) leading up to a small 3/4" clutch master cylinder (Wilwood, Howe, Tilton, Girling etc). Most of the parts can be had from Ebay. I am going to be mounting one exactly like this in my 69.5. You might get away with under 100 bucks doing it this way.
I was talking about the type of setup that would allow me to keep the stock setup on the bell and clutch fork of a t-5(pull forword). So I would need to have a pull in front or a push in back... I don't know how hard it would be to convert a t-5 bell from a pull type to a push type fork.
Sorry, I had no idea that a T5 released it's clutch pulling towards the front of the car. I learn something new everyday. Well, you still might have more room in the front to mount the pull cylinder.
A few months back I stripped a "85 Bronco for the 351,it was a 4 speed truck,saved the hyd.setup for some other project,nice and simple(outside slave cyl.)might want to ck.one out.
Hey MAV1970, Please post pics and comments as you work thru your project. What trans are you gonna use. Let us know what parts you purchase or what you scavenge them from. I have a V8 in my future, but have been planning to use the auto because of the lack of the Z-bar and assoc. parts for clutch activation. Will be very interested to see how it goes for you. If anybody out there has done this and can provide the above requested pics and info, I would love to see it. Thanks
Look aat this....isnt all of it but it is a start. Robert http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...004QQitemZ140188554117QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
