I know I never thought about it, but it is so obvious... Not that I am endorsing this, but I thought it was very interesting. I was talking cars with my uncle the other day, and mentioned that the engine in the Sprint he got from me had a new oil pump, distributor (DS2), and aftermarket pump drive installed. He asked me the oddest question, in my mind anyway. He said "So you have upgraded it to 351w?". I thought I was 'old school', but he proved me wrong. After I was totally confused what he was asking, he explained how he has always upgraded his 289/302s over the years. He would buy a 351w oil pump, drive, and DS2 distributor. Cut the drive to 289/302 length, and install it all. His reasoning is that he gets the strong 351w pump drive at the same time he gets his electronic ignition upgrade. And he would install a new oil pump in a 'new to him' engine no matter what, so it's all part of the circle of life to him. Perfectly natural, and he assumed it would be to me as well. No, I did the same thing, but used 302 stuff and an FMS pump drive. Just something to ponder.
hmm thats interesting. the only thing that i could see keeping that from working is if the the cam to distrubtor deck hight is different. i dont think it is. well i think i know what im doing on my next motor.
That sounds like something that would have been done back in the 60's when we didn't have what is available today. Kind of like the Chevy boys taking a 327 and using a 283 crank to make a home made 302. Isn't a much better high volume pump available from Moroso or Melling?
High volume oil pumps are a pain in the A**. If you dont spin the high rpms, why have one? it makes adjusting valvetrain a nice little chore you cant do anymore with the valve covers off, the engine running at idle and a piece of carboard to catch the oil... it absolutely throws the oil...Also, it pulls a fraction more HP than a standard. Lets not forget the crankcase breather and pcv valve that like to throw up every now and again with a little oil when shes really revving. lol... if i had to do it over again, i would have just got a melling replacement not the HV. but at idle i guess the heads are getting a bit more oil to them... my .02 rant... lol.
the 351 distributor shaft is bigger and will not fit in the 302 block - unless you modify the block too? they are both 4.00" from the bottom of the gear to the bottom of the collar but the outer diameter of the shaft is larger.
Like I said... cut the shaft to 302 length. On high volume pumps: They are generally not recommended. Even on race engines. They sound good, so folks buy them. But they have high parasitic power loss, cause disruption to the distributor, can twist or break even a hardened shaft, and they can empty your oil pan at high rpms... allowing your oiling to run dry faster than it can drain down. Also can put more oil into the strand that wraps your crank, slowing things down.
Oil pump subject is more complex then most realize. The rule is usually 10 psi per 1000 rpm is all that is needed. As to volume, it depends on the total of all the leakage points in the motor as to what the volume of oil movement will be. For example a motor with loose main and rod bearing will flow more volume from the same pump as long as the bypass does not become the limiting point. If the flow increases, the bypass point may 'move up'. Next, there is that little device called the bypass valve in the pump body. It is usually a spring loaded ball or sleeve that opens in response to a pressure about equal to the tension of the bypass spring's tension plus any friction in the housing. This limits the pressure and to some degree limits the volume at the opening point since the pump cannot force very much more oil through the engine's leakage points unless the RPM increases. Lastly the weight of the oil and the temperature has effects on when the bypass pressure is reached. When the oil is cold the bypass opens sooner. Now place your thoughts on a pump that has a larger displacment per revolution. The leakage points that flow the easiest will flow more such as the valve train. Then this all changes as the RPM rises. Not so simple when all is considered.
It's not the length that's the problem, it's the diameter of the shaft. You would have make the hole in the block bigger where the shaft goes.
I don't see an issue with diameter... The hole in the block is not slip fit or any sort of tight around the parts in question.
ah i knew there was a difference. i understand the gain of going to a 351 setup is that you can use the larger drive shaft for the oil pump that the 351 uses. but with todays strong high quality shafts avaible this is a old school mod that is now out of date. i agree about the hight volume pumps being to much volume than the motor needs. i rember something about fords pump desgine is much more efficent than chevys, and the fact that chevys had high volume and pressure pumps probly spawned people asking for ones for ford. ive allways noticed that fords have higher oil pressures at idle than chevys.
I have read these posts twice and am still confused. i thought the old school switch was for the shaft (351) that goes between the dizzy and the oil pump (351). I just replaced mine when I built my motor with a FORD Racing shaft. larger dia than a stock shaft that goes between the dizzy and oil pump (302).Not replacing the 302 dizzy with a 351 dizzy. help me out pls.
well I'm just amazed at the info on these Maverick/Comet web sites. I had no idea of the diff between the dizzy,s as so much other stuff is interchangeable. Thanks a ton Jack for your patience with a Canuck..The pics showed me the difference for sure.RON
