Have you aligned your front end yet? I had an "eyeball" alignment on mine until I decided to pony up for this gauge. I didn't feel comfortable letting some unknown person "twist my bolts" and decided it was to be an owner job. The first thing I found was the ride height was off, the DR side front was 1/2" higher than the PASS side front (which also threw off the rear heights). After removing the shocks 5 times to get the upper shock bracket loose (so as to adjust the height), I finally ended up with the PASS side at full height and the DR side 1/2" lower. This leveled the rear too. I ended up adjusting the PASS side to +4° caster and -3/8° camber (easy!). At this point, I noticed my steering wheel was off center, so I pulled the tie-rod end 4 turns in to center it. Once that side was set, I went to the DR side and tried to duplicate those settings (much harder!). It sure takes longer to match! Finally got it done and the wheel stayed centered. Put the tires back on and set 'er down to check the toe-in and it was perfect at -1/8". If it weren't for the ride height fiasco, it would have took 2 hours max to get the complete alignment finished. Russ
Alignment specs really depend on what you're planning to do with the car, shocks and springs that you have, tires that you're running...It's crazy how much every little thing has an affect and you can really play with how the car turns, handles, and brakes with alignments. Is that toe out or toe in? Negative toe figures are out, positive are toe in. If it's toe in, it looks fine for getting a lot of miles out of those tires! -Clint