Just log onto corral.net and search through the tech sections. This topic has been beat to death there. You'll be able to find out which letter cam works best with those (GT40 I'm guessing?) heads you just pulled off.
ok,specs are: 302 30 over,flat top pistons,gt40 ported/polished heads,otherwise stock,1.7 roller rocker's,typhoon dual plane,holley 650 d/p,pertronix dist.,6901 hooker's,holley blue pump,c-4 auto,w/shift kit.2800-3200 stall converter,8"rear w/4.11 and trac-loc.Not a race car,just a weekend around town toy,with a trip to the local track 3-4 times a year.looking for something with good drivability,but with the most nastiest rough idle/lope I can find. Hope this helps.
I would go back and grab the entire engine. Toss the intake, and slap your intake and carb on, and you now have a full roller engine with low miles. No converting, and you might even get the serpentine system with a decent alternator, who knows WHAT else!!!
too cold here this time of year for all that.Then i'd have to get that block machined,all the extra work swapping engines,ect.,then i'd have to still find a cam.I'd rather just do a cam swap,and call it a day.
Well whatever you decide to do dont get a cam with too big of a lift as the lifter bores in a non roller block are not as tall as the ones in a roller block, this will allow the lifters to get too high in the bores and not be stable, I really dont know what the limit is but I wouldnt want to go much more than .500 lift, the 1.70 roller rockers are helping you with lift as it is. As for the cam for a roller in a non roller block they are harder to come by without spending some big bucks and most have really big lifts to them One way to get more lift and be safe is to use link bar roller lifters but get your pocket book out as they cost quite a bit more.
Too much lift in general is a bad idea most of the time (race cars and guys with too much money excluded). More than .480 is getting into diminishing returns on the flow curve. Especially considering the springs you need to accomodate that much lift at a decent RPM. Then you end up upgrading rocker studs, retainers, rockers, etc etc etc... If you just want it to sound mean, there are low (er) lift cams out there with a lot of duration and overlap.
Unfortunately good drivability and a nasty rough idle dont go hand in hand. Your nasty lope is valve overlap which reduces vacuum and drivability. You have to match a cam to the set up you have. Like mentioned the manufacturers are best to answer that.
Thanks guys for all the advice and suggestions,but i'm going to stay with my non roller hydraulic cam for now.I've been to probably a couple dozen sites reading up on the conversion,and found one that said all you need to do is get the spider setup,and lifters,and another said,that i have to buy a cam that is made just for a conversion,to make it work.I'm just going to get a roller block/engine,and build it in my spare time.Again thanks for all your help.
Probably a wise decision, as a side note the cam you posted is a lopey cam and a hard runner, at least it was in one of my engines that was comparitable to yours. And remember when you get to building your roller block you will need the oil pump,pick up tube, front sump oil pan and timing cover (unless you go with electric fuel pump) from your motor and a 50oz harmonic balancer and flexplate
I agree.I think it'll be easier in the long run,to start with a block thats already setup for it.Too many costly mistakes to be made if not done right.
i heard that comp will grind you a small base circle cam free of charge! well you still have to buy the cam but no extra fee. But i just heard this from the old mustang guys, i don't know if its true. but they're kinda iffy looking, wouldn't want one in a race car. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...-flat-tappet-roller-standard-vs-reduced-2.jpg
[nomedia]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OI3qvRXALw[/nomedia] Hello, this is my car idling with comp cams magnum cam 292-292 duration 530-530 lift 347 stroker motor, this will give you an idea of rough idle.
You need to select a cam that is compatable with the converter stall speed, your rear gearing and car weight, no matter what type you select to use. Your into a deal that requires knowing compatability issues or there can be disapointment with the end result. Cam company will tell you what cam if you give them the info they ask for.
My cam is a Comp (I think? Crane?). Anyway, small base circle on the exhaust, and it runs sorta like 2 mav man's at idle. My specs are below. I believe mine is plenty street friendly, just a little hard to start on cold days with no choke. Once it has warmed up for 30 seconds or so, it rides just like any other car I have driven. Until I put my foot into it... I did have to fork over a little dough for the correct springs. This was not just a "slap-in" cam. I also needed lash caps on the exhaust, or longer pushrods. I used lash caps, at $12 vs the $much$ $more$ for the pushrods.
