uh... those arnt roller pushrods I thought they were around 6.4 unless this is a flat tappet cam. go to some auto parts place and ask for an 87 mustang gt roller pushrod
Pushrod length's about right according to what Comp lists for your combo (6.85) If the block and heads have been milled too much, they could be too long now. Use a magic marker to paint the rocker tips, then bolt down the rockers and cycle the motor thru two complete revolutions, then look at the wear pattern on the valve stem tips. The pattern should be centered of close to it on the tip.
I had a nice centered wear pattern before I just added these shims, now that I added the shims I'm sure its not the same. But for now at least I decreased some of the preload. One cyl. Didn't require a shim on the exhaust and another cyl I had to add a thick shim... I guess I will fiire it up and see what happens unless I can try something else, any suggestions? Thanks for the input!
Well if it still gives me trouble I will try the marker trick to see where it is hitting the valve stem. If the pushrods are too long what are my options? Also, how do I know how much shorter to go?
Even with the incorrect push rod length, it should fire up and run. I have E7TE heads on a 73 302, and mine ran with the pushrods too short, it just sounded like a solid lifter motor.
ok, just fired it up and same ****...no difference...keeps backfiring through the carb and wont stay running...tried moving the dizzy either way with similar results...I dont know what the deal is with this thing. I am certain I had the dots lined up on the cam and crank. I'd hate to have to pull it all apart but i dont know what else to do.. any suggestions? maybe its something obvious that i over looked? Anyone in the Hudson Valley NY area that can stop by and take a look see at this thing? lol Well, with nothing else to try what do I do now?? unless I reall screwed this thing up by not setting the preload at the proper location ...could that have anything to do with it?
If there's too much preload, it can do what you describe. It'll be holding the valves open. Take all those shims back out and just torque the rocker bolts down to 25 ft/lbs. and see how it runs.
I thought by adding the shims it would decrease the preload, I already had the shims out and torqued down to 20 ft/lbs ... Maybe I should just go with traditional rockers with studs? I noticed too that while I had the covers off the rockers didn't look like one was higher and what not, they all looked relatively in the same position, I thought this was odd but figured that the lifters weren't pumped up... I don't know... Just frustrated with it right now... But I can give your suggestion a try.
Ok what do you think about going with tradtional rockers with studs rather than these non adjustable pedestal mount type?
I have been thinking about this thing all night.. now the last time this car ran I took it down the road ( not too far, it died and i ended up pushing it back) and it did not seem to shift properly either, my point is... if the vacuum line has disconnected from the transmission is it possible the engine would not run correctly because of that? I know the tranny is pulling a vacuum off the intake manifold but would it cause this type of (non) running behavior? The reason I ask is because after I tried starting the car lastnight, as it was trying to run, it had no response to throttle position.... it just didnt want to run no matter how much or little gas I was giving it... what do you think?
Without reading this entire thread I ask do you have a fresh. clean fuel supply?? Been burned on it many times.