Ok so I did some welding today on the Grabber, it went fine but afterwards I went to the paint supply to get a flapper disc for my 4" grinder, I came out of the store and the car would not turn over at all, had lights horn and buzzer but nothing on ignition, checked battery with load checker it was fine, pulled batt. wires off and cleaned them, still notta thing, still had strong buzzer horn and all, checked wires on soleniod, made sure they were tight, still no ignition, turned key on and jumped solenoid and it started right up, but wait, on the way home doing 45 mph it just shut down, pulled over and tried to restart it with key and it started but the starter was still running, jumped out and knocked crap out of the starter solenoid and the starter quit spinning, drove it to the house but it was still trying to die but didn't, my questions are could the current from the welding I did have anything to do with it or just coincidence that it happened, should I disconnect the battery when welding on the car? btw I will get a new solenoid tomorrow.
I always disconnect the battery when welding or working on a car in general, I just do it out of habit. But I'd also like to know if it cause a harm.
You could be looking at two different problems here. You didn't say what ignition system you're running. If it's an electronic setup, it's possible you fried something in it. The solenoid sticking ? That could be from low battery voltage, caused by excessive cranking while trying to get it to start. Or you could have shorted something in the battery while welding.
I always disconnect the battery when welding on a vehicle. Also have the ground clamp as close to the point of welding as possible. In fact, on newer cars, there is a list of procedures to do before welding! In your case, no, welding didn't cause your solenoid failure! I've only seen one solenoid ruined by welding and it was a diode protected type on a new car. Ford solenoids seem to suffer the sticking ailment all by themselves! I don't know if it matters, But I always mount them with the posts down so gravity, in addition to the spring, helps pull the plunger back.
What was you welding on? Also as stated check whole ignition system from battery, positive to distributor.
More so the off brand ones like "duralast/master pro,etc...", It's worth more to get an Autolite/Motocraft one.
I've had brand new Advance Auto solenoids stick with a fully charged battery, but even Ford/Motorcraft's wil stick open with low battery voltage.
I alwase try to remember to disconnect the battery before I weld on any vehicle but there has been quit a few times that I have not and I have never noticed any ill effects from it. I do alwase put the ground as close to the area I am welding though . I run a ford starting, ignition, and charging system on my jeep and I run two solonoids two ignition modules and two regulators all bolted side by side so if one fails while I`m on the trail I`m not screwed. I know thats not something you would do with a nice street car I`m just saying.