at what point do you need a HV oil pump?

i have a HV oil pump paid for and sitting around but still have a stock oil pan..at what point do you need the High vol. pump? could i get away with the original one...or should i just buy a new front sump pan w/ pickup?

 

when you have loose bearing tolerances. you will want an aftermarket oil pump drive shaft like the one from arp.

 

tolerances are really good..so should i just check my price vs a stock pump and a front sump pan..if the pans cheap enough i could get it if not just replace the OEM pump...can i use the same OEM one i have or will i need a new one? thanks

 

Why do you feel the need to replace the pump or the pan ? Are you rebuilding the motor, or just looking for something to do ?

 

The motor is completely brand new, and I'm not sure if the pumps can wear out or what and if it holds enough oil for me.. I read somewhere at high Rpms the oil can be all at the top of the motor which leaves it starving

 

That is true....you dont want the engine to starve for oil

 

yes but thats a return issue. It can actually be worse with a higher volume pump in a stock config. Nothing wrong with a factory pump for an engine with factory clearances.

 

The machine shop that worked on my 5.0 block recommended against a high volume oil pump. They also said, if I did get a HV oil pump, the stock shaft should be replaced with a tougher one. Said the stock one can twist off with the HV pump. I used the stock pump and shaft.

 

Not sure why you are questioning which pan. Its not like you have a choice of front sump or any other sump. If you have a different pan that came with a roller motor then it is probably a fox body pan and will not work in the Maverick.

 

Talking about oil pumps is interesting because if you have a problem here the motor could turn into a boat anchor, although an electric pressure switch which will shut off the motor if the pressure gets lower than 5psi is always helpful and cheap insurance.
When you are building a new motor do you use an old timing chain?, well I wouldn't, and that also goes for the oil pump. If you have a new motor then buy a new one.............it's cheap insurance.
Now with that said I would bet 98% of people just take it out of the box and stick it on.................kind of like taking a new cam out of the box and stuffing it into the block...............again, my guess is most people do this without ever checking the cam buy using a degree wheel.
I really don't see any need in a HV oilpump unless you are building some really wild motor that will be making over 600hp.............just my opinion here. But the one thing that I believe should be done is to blueprint the oil pump..........just like you would do for anyother part of the motor. If you have never done it before or don't feel you can there are a number of companies out there doing this, and if you have a machine shop that understands blueprinting engines they should also be able to do it for you.
If you have ever taken a "new" Melling oil pump apart................you would see what I mean. These pumps have casting flashing in all of the passages, these passages should be polished and the corners blended to help flow, the housing and gears should be deburred to reduce cavitation, and you can even treat the gears to a moly-coating, the relief valve should be deburred and polished with emery cloth and when you assemble it you need to check at least three dimensions/clearances, backlash, cover plate to gear, and gear to housing.........one other important issue is the oil port to block port, do they match up exactly..................probably not, just like matching intake ports on your intake manifold to the intake ports on the head........................IMHO

 

Stay with the stock pump unless your getting a deeper front sump oil pan and pick up tube. As previously stated on a stock motor, stock pan and HV pump you can run it dry at high RPM's

 

I would replace the shaft with the heavier one regardless. I have seen the stock one twisted and broken with a standard pump.

 

Its apart now??? Put an arp pump drive shaft it now...Use a new stock style pump. You dont need an HV pump unless you are running a large oil cooler and remote filter setup...Turning alot of rpm for a long period of time (like endurance racing/ nascar) A regular 5 qt pan is plenty for a street car. An HV pump can empty a 7 qt pan as easily as a 5 qt pan. Stock pump drive shafts will twist with straight 30 wt motor oil let alone any other heavy weight oil. Run an ARP shaft regardless of the direction you go in. Its cheap insurance...Good luck!!!

 

Yep i broke a shaft on a fresh rebuild years back. It was the end of that motor. Didnt know they made hardened shafts till it was too late. Oh well at 17 it was no big deal to pull it out again.lol. Lesson learned.

 

Twisted one in an old ford PU I had...Was running 30 wt to keep the little guy with the hammer living in the crank case quiet. Finally pulled it down for a freshen up and found the shaft twisted, looking like a piece of wrougt iron railing...LOL... That settled it for me 25 years ago...