1974 Maverick Manual Brake Master and Heater Core Replacement

Discussion in 'Technical' started by mphilleo, Oct 26, 2021.

  1. mphilleo

    mphilleo Member

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    I'm going to try not to wear out my welcome here, but I'd like to ask for input from you guys. Our '74 needs three things right away: a heater core (bypassed), a carb rebuild (Carter C1-YFA), and a new manual brake master (it's leaking on the firewall).

    I did order a set of shop manuals, but the parts look like they'll arrive at least a few days beforehand and I'd like to get cracking. I've only rebuilt a motorcycle carb before, but I did find a video guide on rebuilding the Carter. The heater core and the brake master are different.

    Do any of you have any suggestions on how to do these jobs, links, videos, etc? I've searched and found little that was relevant. I've replaced heater cores, but I'm not sure how to disassemble the dash and don't want to break it since it's probably pretty fragile. I've never done a brake master before, and the only guides available are for power brakes or converting to manual brakes.

    The flesh is willing but the spirit is unknowledgeable.
     
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  2. ADOR

    ADOR Member

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    One thing to check is I went from manual drum brakes to manual disk brakes. The push rod length for the master cylinder was too long and I had to use my original push rod for the master cylinder.

    I have run into this on two 60’s mustangs so far as well.
     
  3. mphilleo

    mphilleo Member

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    Thanks for the input! The master I got was a new unit from NAPA specified for the manual brake system. I'm assuming that means the rod it comes with should be correct, right?
     
  4. ADOR

    ADOR Member

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    The one I ordered was for manual disk as well, but the rod was still longer than the original and raised up the pedal way up high.

    just compare your original to the new one to make sure.

    Once you shove the rod into the hole with the spring clip in it it’s a major pain to get out. Usually damage the spring getting it out.
     
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  5. mphilleo

    mphilleo Member

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    Thanks, I'll be sure to compare the rods first.
     
  6. ADOR

    ADOR Member

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    I never had to change my heater core but there should be a video somewhere.

    also on eBay here is a picture of the HVAC pulled to give you idea of what it looks like and you can see the snap clips on the side.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1331983230...MbqqZLW1eIAzNKrgT5mGQN2Xk5rh2_-RoC8P0QAvD_BwE

    if it’s similar to a 67 Mustang you have some bolts on the firewall in the engine Bay Area to undo, will be much easier with the car having a inline six to get to those bolts.
     
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  7. mphilleo

    mphilleo Member

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    Thank you, I appreciate it. That does help!
     
  8. Craig Selvey

    Craig Selvey Indiana State Rep - MCCI

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    May not need to remove the heater box at all. If you can get to all the "clips" around the outside edge, then you can get to the heater core.
     
  9. Vestrimatrik

    Vestrimatrik Member

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    Does your car have factory ac? If it does I may have some pictures to help you out. I just recently rebuilt mine and it's not back in the car yet but I can show you pictures of the bolt locations.
     
  10. CA189HJN

    CA189HJN Robert Couse-Baker

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    Bypassing the heater core is uncomplicated. Go to your Friendly Local Auto Parts store and buy a Dorman 47016 Coolant Service Kit. Under $10. Under the hood, cut both heater hoses a few inches from the firewall. Take the T from the kit and connect the two loose ends (the ones not sticking out of the firewall). Clean up any spilled coolant so your dog doesn't drink it. Top up radiator, which is full when the coolant is about 3/8-inch above the fins and there is no trapped air in the system. Recheck when the car is cold. Don't open a hot radiator unless you like painful trips to hospital emergency rooms.
     
  11. wiesguy

    wiesguy Member

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    "Don't open a hot radiator unless you like painful trips to hospital emergency rooms."


    Yes, take it from me, when I was a can't be told 14 year old, opened a hot farm tractor radiator, that was prone to leaking.
    Scalded my chest, neck, face and even the roof of my mouth. Was lite second degree, and luckily, scaring faded over time.
     
  12. Constable

    Constable You have the right to remain silent....or not!

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    I rebuilt my YFA and I'm not the most experienced carb guy, in fact I'm downright mediocre. Trick is to go slowly and methodically. They're not a complicated carb at all. If you're concerned about forgetting where something went, take a lot of pictures during teardown. Make sure they're clear and you can understand what you did. You'll have to clean the carb after it's gutted and you can do it by dipping or spray & wipe with cleaner. Canned air can be your friend here also. Make sure all passageways are clear. Never reuse gaskets. Sometimes the rebuild kits come with an exploded diagram which can be a big help. As to adjustments after it's back on the engine, it's pretty much by feel and ear other than idle speed. You'll know when it's right. All I know is after I was done, the car started and runs pretty well. I had bought a new aftermarket carb and the car runs better on the rebuild.
     
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