73 Maverick Resurrection

Discussion in 'Technical' started by wschromm, Jun 4, 2021.

  1. wschromm

    wschromm Member

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    Hey all, I could use some brainstorming on resurrecting my '73 Maverick. To start with what I know, my wife and I purchased the Maverick from a fella out in Northern AZ about a month/month and a half ago. The vehicle hasn't run in about 1 year and is a 302 that recently had the carb rebuilt (he said about 1 month before we purchased).

    So here is what all I've done to try and get this guy up and running again, in the order that I've done it while using all the schematics and info from the Maverick/Comet repair site another friendly guy sent over to me when I posted in the new user forum.

    1. Installed a brand new battery and attempted ignition -> resulted in some smoke from the fusible links and a pop at the ignition relay.
    2. Replaced ignition relay and repaired the damaged fusible links at the relay. Also realized that the previous owners AEM electronic ignition coil and distributor were not completely wired in. I wired these in per the AEM's instructions and was able to see the engine crank but not start.
    3. Attempted to check coil wire w/ screw driver to see what type of spark I was getting (blue/orange, strong/weak) but got nothing. Attempted a few tests per the AEM's recommendation and realized that the coil was getting voltage but the sensor within the distributor was not operating.
    4. From some friend's recommendations, I went back to stock with an OEM ignition coil and points-type distributor. I removed the plugs and reset the engine to TDC1, installed these items and wired per the schematic and replaced with new spark plugs and wires to the top of the distributor/coil. This resulted in the engine cranking and I could hear the sparks firing attempting to start the engine but my battery drained very quickly. Doing a few voltage checks and jumping my battery, I discovered that the voltage regulator wasn't operating properly.
    5. Replaced the voltage regulator and decided to change the oil while I was at it. I also discovered at this point that a "mystery wire" with a broken ring terminal hanging near the voltage regulator was ground to the alternator; I fixed that. I started the engine and heard the same sounds of the spark plugs firing and even started to see the engine turn over quicker and sustain turning over after letting the key slip from "ignition" to "on" but only as long as I pump the gas pedal.

    This is where I'm stuck and need some suggestions..

    I did see a grey puff of smoke come from the top of the carb once and still have the same engine sustaining turning over but not actually starting as long as I pump the gas pedal. I'm not overly familiar with carb based engines, really only the standard response from friends of "all you need to know is that it's a mix of air and fuel..." etc. Is it worth re-re-building the carb so I know I did the work? I'm assuming the previous owner did it correctly..

    I am also seeing a voltage drop from the ignition relay to the ignition coil when the key is in the "on" position. I have 12V at the relay and about 5-6V at the coil; could this be an issue with the alternator not have been properly grounded and suffering a failure at some point? I can get one of these on order from rockauto quickly so not a big deal there. Or is this normal to see the drop? I'm assuming there isn't an intermittent open or ground short somewhere but having searched this out yet.

    Any other suggestions of where I can check for failures or what I can do to get this sweet Mav running again? I have pictures and videos I can attach/upload as well to assist with what I'm seeing and hearing too, just ask.

    Please and thank you! I appreciate all the feedback, but bear in mind that I'm a Mechanical Engineer, not an Automotive Mechanic! :) I may ask some "dumb" questions from time to time as I enjoy my new hobby.
     
    Russell likes this.
  2. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    There's a resistor wire from ign sw to coil, 7-9v is normal.

    Air, fuel & spark are worthless if timing is incorrect. I suspect you have (very) late ignition timing, rotate dist approx ¼" CW & try again. Don't be afraid to advance timing a couple times. If cranking becomes "jerky", it's over advanced. Check with timing light once running.

    Smoke and blown fuse links were about 99.99% reversed battery terminals.
     
  3. wschromm

    wschromm Member

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    Thank you, Tom! Rotating the distributor did the trick and I was able to get her started and let the engine idle for about 20 minutes to burn off any crud that accumulated.

    I went for a victory lap and stalled, however, and I wasn’t able to start the engine again without it being jumped. I’ll be taking my battery back to autozone because I’m wondering if it’s not holding its charge anymore from being drained while I was try to start the engine.
     
  4. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    Yee Haww!!! Congrats...

    Now sounds like charging system isn't functioning. Check voltage at battery with engine running approx 1500-2000 RPM(fast idle). Operating, alt should be producing at least 13.5v, a low/mid 14v is the usual voltage. There's a fuse link at starter relay that feeds voltage from alt, if it's open charge current cannot reach battery.
     

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