Anybody using one of these power steering conversion kits?

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by bmcdaniel, Jun 3, 2021.

  1. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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  2. Fastkarz

    Fastkarz Member

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    PS.jpg I installed the Borgenson conversion box while doing the new drivetrain. I used 2 hoses from Borgenson and two factory PS hoses to make up lines along with a new factory PS pump. I changed my front end parts from PS style to manual steering style so I didn't have to use the crazy ball socket adapter. I also added a cooler (late model Tahoe) in front of the radiator. Cooler is not a perfect fit so i would see what else is out there.

    PRO - the bump steer is gone. Car goes straight, easy to turn, steering is tight.

    CON - The return to center sucks. I have the upper arms shimmed for maximum caster but after a turn the steering doesn't return to center. This is a new system so I was going to try and loosen the gear lash on top of the box to see if that helps.
    - The hose routing is not optimal. You can run the 4 hose combo down under the headers and along the oil pan (I didnt like the routing after mock up) or go over the headers along the side of the shock tower (which I did) adding heat shield wrap to the hoses. The hoses now block my access for spark plugs and the upper A arm bolts to do an alignment.

    If I had to do it again I would yank all the PS and just run manual steering or go for Mustang II setup and junk these shock towers. IMO.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2021
  3. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I've had one on my car a few years, changed from factory p/s steering. Got rid of all the leaking hoses and whining pump.
    I had some issues early in the conversion w/ the GM gen. I pumps pressure making steering very sensitive anything over 50mph -- wound up adding 4 shims to reduce pressure. Also, had to get caster to 3 deg. + to get steer wheel to center on turns, w/ stock A-arms added shims to get caster where it needed to be. Hoses w/ kit to short for my liking -- has some made. I am not running a cooler and had no issues in 7 or so years operational.
    Steering feels more like modern cars as there is no one finger turning. I like the feel compared to OE.
     
  4. Krazy Comet

    Krazy Comet Tom

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    I have heard of swap being made by forming hard lines from steering sector, routing along frame rail then connect to pump with soft lines.
     
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  5. BBMS18

    BBMS18 Member

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  6. canuck222

    canuck222 vroom, vroom... Supporting Member

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    Keep looking at this one - what concerns me is how compatible it is with headers and column shift.
     
  7. BBMS18

    BBMS18 Member

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    Fits great with Hooker 6901 headers, can’t say about column shift both Blink71’s car & mine have T5 trans.
     
  8. BBMS18

    BBMS18 Member

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  9. tody

    tody Member

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  10. markso125

    markso125 Member

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  11. Lee Richart

    Lee Richart Member

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    I've had a Borgeson conversion for several years now and am very pleased with it. Definitely use a manual steering drag link. I am using the Saginaw pump that came with the kit. It required a right angle fitting for the return hose to clear the spring tower. I have to run my hoses up by the spring tower to clear my big 421 Windsor. In order to get the positive caster I needed I switched to a 73 Mustang lower strut bar. It interchanges perfectly, but has more threads and therefore more adjustment. I have a B&M floor shift, so column shifting was not an issue. Overall, I am very happy with the unit.
    Hope that answers your questions.
    Lee "THE MAV" Richart
     
  12. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    I got increased caster shims in UCA 3+ both sides. I'm using Saginaw pump had to use shims in pressure side to reduce steering sensitivity over 50mph. I'm running custom hoses over towers, did'nt like how close kit hoses were to exhaust header. I am using PS drag link w/ no issues.
    How much caster do you have Stang strut rods?
     
  13. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Thanks Lee.
    I don't have any strut rods, I have the CPP mini subframe that uses lower A-arms.
     
  14. mojo

    mojo "Everett"- Senior Citizen Supporting Member

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    You have to shim A-arms for caster adjustment? How you like the CPP setup?
     
  15. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Car is still up on jack stands. The lower control arms have eccentrics front and rear. To adjust caster you offset the eccentrics, same effect as adding shims. You can always add shims to the top control arm if you need more caster. Should be ready to see how it works this weekend. Took plenty of pics about how I modified the subframe plate, I'll post later. Cutting out the stock crossmember was the hardest part. Amazing how many spot welds they used to assemble those pieces of sheet metal.
     
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