finally got some pics of the tank I made. tank body is 10" long, 2" aluminized exhaust pipe. bottom is a 350 chevy cam plug...looks like a 2- 3/16" freeze plug. top neck is the gas tank neck from a 1972 chevy C 10 pickup. cap is from same tank neck. ports are a 1/4" steel coupler cut in half. bottom (in) fitting is 1/4" X 5/16" brass barbed fitting. top (vent/overflow) fitting is 1/4" X 5/16" brass barbed fitting. the mounting brack is a bracket I found at the shop that had two holes in it. plug welded on in one of the holes in the bracket. powder coated with a Summit sticker stuck on it. the second pic is also a good one of the new fan shroud I made and Volvo fan I install earlier.
thanks... it was powder coated inside also. the RC-107 kit gives you all the room you will ever need. I offset the fan on my shroud to give my bottom rad hose a little more clearance.
What Volvo fan U have? The LS block must be shorter than SBF, why so much more room between fan assembly & water pump pulley? U need 2 sensors for the system to activate hi/low speeds? Why U switch from Taraus fan to Volvo -- expirmentation?
The Volvo fan uses the same motor as the Taurus and the whole package is a cleaner look because you can make your own shroud.
You use the Volvo relay...it has low fan and high fan sensor wires. on my MSD Atomic EFI it has signals for a #1 fan and #2 fan. they are ground signals for relays so I just wired them to the Volvo relay's low #1... high #2. what I liked about the Volvo fan is it's separate from the shroud, that way I could make my own. what you can't see in the pic is...the fan blades stick 3/4" through the shroud. it worked for me because I wanted my new shroud 2" deep. the Champion shroud I had with the Champion fan was 3/4" deep. in this pic the fan hub and half of the blades are sticking through the shroud. on the Taurus fan I had to run two sensors...one for low and one for high (w/Volvo relay). also had to cut down it's shroud.
It appears you have the straight blade version, if you can find the curved version they seem to draw more air.
there are several factors to consider in choosing and installing an electric fan. the radiator mounted fans (with the plastic ties) you have a dead spot in the center of the fan caused by the fan motor. that's why I chose to build a shroud to set the fan back 1.25" off the radiator core. I think most stock factory fans come in a full shroud. a fan can only pull as much air (CFMs) as the radiator core (2 3 or 4 row), condenser, inner cooler, trans cooler ets. will allow. a fan trying to pull more than whats allowed will over heat drawing way more amps than normal. an electric fan company doesn't even recommend using an electric fan on a 4 row radiator...with or without A/C. "bigger is not better" my setup is an A/C condenser with a 2 row aluminum radiator. with my full fan shroud the straight blade fan I have is pulling about the max air (CFM) it can through my setup.