Got an oxy-acetylene torch? if so use a fine or medium tip and heat the E-Z out until it's glowing red. keeping the torch tip steady, turn off the gas. The oxy will burn out the E-Z out! After this, try again with another E-Z out, gently this time. A few heatings and coolings and patience will get the stud out!
Ok, a small punch ( a teense smaller than the E-Z out ) and a small hammer! Wear safety glasses for this one! Just keep chipping away at the E-Z out. It will break into small pieces eventually. Take your time and don't get frustrated. One thing I should mention is after you get the broken E-Z out removed, Make sure you drilled all the way through the broken bolt! This relieves some of the pressure it has against turning. I'd pick up some P B Blaster and spray through the hole you drilled and leave it sit overnight. Then try an E-Z out again. The blurry photos may have been caused by not using a " macro " setting when up that close. Notice that the cylinder wall and blue tarp are focused? I just got a new camera and am learning how to use it too!
We sure are going through allot of these conversations lately.... is the block in the car? If not take it down too your local machine shop they will probably be able to do it the quickest and cheapest...
"a small punch"...done this a time or two... I was theading a solid pipe once and broke the tap off. Harold took the pipe, hit the side of it on the vice and the tap busted into small pieces and fell out...
If you have a welder you can build up a weld on the easy out then use some vise grips and twist it out the opposite way ( to remove the easy out not the bolt) it may take several times to get it out. If you do get it out I would recommend just drilling the old bolt out and installing a heli-coil. If you still cant get it out best way is to take it to a machine shop with an EDM Also agree with punch technique, I am a machinist and have used it for removing several broken drills/easy outs/taps doesnt work so great on easy outs. use a pointy punch not a long skinny one.
It's just the settings, set your camera to macro. http://www.ephotozine.com/article/using-your-digital-camera-s-macro-mode-4848
If you have access to someone with a MIG welder, you can hold a nut over the broken bolt and E-Z out and fill the nut with weld and then remove the bolt and E-Z out when the nut and weld cools to the point where the orange fades to grey. I do this all the time and it works every time, only you may have to try it a few times before the weld fuses to the broken part.
I dont have a welder of any kind, nor do i have a torch. I thank you all for your input, but this is a bigger problem than i can tackle. looks like i might be up the creek. last chance will be the muffler shop. if thats a no go, then i might have to chuck the motor and start from scratch. Not that im that far from it to begin with!
