My 1972 Comet GT Clone

a slight 1/16 to 1/8 relief on that arm won't hurt anything from a strength standpoint since that's not the weakest link anyways. Big sticky race tires will break the factory spindles before that thing will pop on you.

Mind you.. I wouldn't excessively clearance it knowing the way that I drive my cars.. but I've seen far more than that taken off those things in the past. I was just saying to spread the clearancing to all components rather than singling out 1 or 2, is all.

 

I seem to recall that the muffler shop had to VERY SLIGHTLY dimple the area around the pitman arm. If you want me to go out and confirm (it has been a long time ago) just let me know....but they do fit.

 

I'd like to know what the variable is? Why don't they work in your car, when they have worked in many others? Other than the bolts being too long, I had no other issues. I contacted Doug Thorley, after buying mine, and told them about the issue, and they offered to send me the correct length bolts.
It's not like anything is any better, seems most people have to pound the crap outta the Hookers to get them to fit...long tube Headmans require a drop bracket, for power steering......

 

Wow that's nice....

Looks as if your pipe has been routed around that finger on the bell... I have no issue with cutting it as mine is destined to be a cruiser and will never be anywhere near a concurs resto...

 

I have Black Jacks and the pitman arm has put a slight dent in one of the tubes. Didn't have to use a drop bracket when it was all in my other Comet (LDO).
I trimed that trans ear off for more wiggle room. This SHOULD be about all the troubles with the exhaust untill it comes to the rear. Some find trouble by the gas tank.
I am watching and enjoying the pics cause at some point I may go the same route.

 

Since I've had enough aggravation with the header fitment I decided to work on other things this afternoon...

Bling always makes one feel better, chrome VC to perk up my spirits... The oil filler is for 1967 390 or 289 Hi-Po, I have a strong distaste for the factory setup with PCV plumbed into oil fill...



The PCV valve will be in the passenger valve cover like the '60s models...



Work on the '96 Ranger PMGR starter harness is close to finished, I'll probably make(or at least have a friend do so) a small mounting plate to mount the solenoid... My neighbor had tossed it in a pile of stuff he was going to sell for scrap, when I saw how nice it was I knew exactly where it's new home would be... Other than the negative cable being a little long it almost fell in place, even has the plug on connector for for the solenoid on starter...

 

Wow Tom...that is looking Beautiful!!! Love your Powered By Ford Valve Covers...and your intake and Holley Carb look fantastic with it...so shiny!

...and we all know you will work those Thorley's out when you are ready

 

I don`t know how they will work Tom, but I`m going w/ crites & a hydraulic throw out bearing.A 351 is even a tuffer fit than a 302,but Mike bush said they worked pretty well so I`ll take his word for it.With a hydraulic throw out bearing you can eliminate the clutch fork giving even more room,& from what I can see you need all you can get.:confused:

 

Awesome!!!

 

Due to up coming holidays, hasn't been much progress but I have at least five or six hours in the wiring harness repair and install... Most all the old wrap has been replaced, also installed a new washer hose...

Yeah I need to work on that plug wire routing...



Shot of wiring, M/C and distribution block... Don't pay any attention to the painted hood hinge bolts, were that way when I bought it and don't think I'll change them...

 

You need some of this for that master.

 

Thanks Dave, I'll have to check out that stuff... I hadn't noticed rust till I shot the pict and that's happened in the last three or four days as we've had temp swing from below freezing to 80*+ with high humidity(it's now in the 30s again)... The dist hold down that I bead blasted and didn't paint is now totally brown, I'll have to toss it in the sand box again...

The M/C is clear coated but apparently the edges got roughed up during final install, had to remove the lines I'd installed to get it to fit between shock tower and fire wall...

 

Not sure if you used a rattle can on that M/C.. but due to the porosity of those cast units it would take many many coats to completely encapsulate the surface profile. Much better off to use a brush on product for increased mil thickness and better bridging of porous sufaces. This is the one I use on many underhood items that have been blasted and/or polished.

http://www.eastwood.com/diamond-clear-gloss-set.html

I have another one I used to use long ago that seemed even better than the above(much higher solids/resin content), but I believe they may not even make it anymore due to the stricter VOC laws these days. If you want me to go search for it in the fire cabinet?.. I can run out to the shop later to check the products brand/name.

 

Yeah I rattle canned it but only a couple coats...

Paint is VHT clear I bought to do the M/C on my Fairlane years ago, except for a slight yellowing it's been fine but I likely gave it three or four coats... Paint went on evenly and dried normally(did test on some bolts prior), I suppose it could have issues these days...

 

Well I finally cut the ear of the bellhousing that was giving the grief, should be plenty of clearance now(at least with a pipe with some bend in it)... Note the angle of the collector in relation to the header, angle is nowhere nearly optimum...