Hi Mike, There probably are some build/tech threads. The original booster is pretty big and requires a different shock tower to cowl brace. I have one of those braces available if you want to go that route. I seem to remember some folks using a smaller (GM ? S-10?) booster. You also need to change the brake pedal to one with a different (shorter?) leverage point. For front disc brakes, later Mav/ Comet or Granada/Monarch spindles swap right in. Stay away from Lincoln Versailles spindles, different ball joint. Disc brakes up front will make the biggest gain in braking power. I run those with an unboosted master cylinder. They work well enough, I had to put an adjustable proportioning valve in to turn down the rear drum brakes. They were locking up too easy.
Thank you for the info. I have disc brakes in the front. I have to stand on the pedal to stop it. It stops but I would feel better not having to press the brake pedal so hard.
Get a universal after-market power brake booster & master cylinder for a Ford. The factory power brake setup for these cars is not worth the effort since it doesn't work all that great anyway, and is a pain to install. Looks ridiculous too. It was basically an afterthought from Ford in the '70s...
I think you have too look at something not working properly in system, if having stand on pedal to stop. Master cylinder issue, rust/air in system, froze calipers too name a few. When the system is working properly— no need stand on pedal.
I switched my master cylinder to a (74 to 75? Dunno, been 20+ years) Maverick Disc Brake M/C. I believe the difference is that the piston in there is SMALLER in diameter, more pressure per the amount moved. I know it sounds counter-intuitive. Someone here that is more of a tech can probably back this up (or correct me, lol). I don't mean to make it sound like mine is anything like power brakes, it does take some leg effort, but it works. It is like driving an old truck from the 50s or 60s.
Disc brakes require more pressure (and pedal effort) to actuate than drum brakes, but should still work reasonably well without power assist when drum brakes are on back...
Master Cylinder bore size can make a difference too, see my post #6.......... http://mmb.maverick.to/threads/disc-vs-drum-master-cylinder-bore-size.120849/#post-1148180 some good info here too........ https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-...medium=email&utm_content=toolbox&smi_pc=drive more info on Brake Pedal ratio......... https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5037/~/what-is-brake-pedal-ratio? David
Ones on my Comet are require noticeably increased effort. MC is for '74 Maverick with disc, brakes 1969 Torino, all parts new.
If you have to "stand on the pedal"....you have other problems. Keep in mind....brake pedal "feel" on a 1971 will never be as good as on a newer car.
Going to a smaller diameter master cylinder helps a lot. I ended up with a Wilwood master cylinder, which I believe is 7/8" diameter. I also have Wilwood discs on the front, which are 12 1/8" in diameter and this helps too. Lee "THE MAV" Richart
Check with ABS Power Brake in orange Ca. I have one of there units on my 71 Mav. It is a small unit its fit between fire wall and spring tower and works manual drum brake pedal assembly. Web ABS Power Brake .com