Problem test firing 302

Discussion in 'General Maverick/Comet' started by chandler, Jul 4, 2012.

  1. chandler

    chandler Member

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    I changed the condencer that solved the probelm of it firing correctly at the coil. As the motor is cranked it goes from 11.6 volts to 0.0 as the points open and close.
    Again I took out the #1 spark plug no spark, tried a different wire that I had on the shelf still no fire on at the plug :hmmm:
     
  2. maverick1970

    maverick1970 MCG State Rep

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    If you have fire at the coil but not at the plug then it seems like it has to be the cap or the rotor.
     
  3. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    What happens if you crank it while touching the big terminal of the coil? LOL
     
  4. sdb416

    sdb416 Member

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    This is actually a good idea and very painful.



     
  5. chandler

    chandler Member

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    I have gotten a new cap and rotor which were new. At this time I am willing to double up heck the condensor helped :)
    I believe bmcdaniel is referring me to use a tester on it.

    Thanks everyone and hopefully I can work on it tonight.
     
  6. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    Actually, I was refering to your finger. :D
    You'll know right away.
     
  7. ThisFords4U

    ThisFords4U Member

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    OK. I reread this twice, trying to make sure what you have done. you said you have proper "spark" ?? at the coil, but 0 volts on the neg terminal, but yet no spark at the plugs (with new cap and rotor). I would double check my connections in the cap Sometimes the rotor to cap terminal is missing inside the cap, coil wire terminal inside cap missing, rotor tab not bent up enough. use your ohms meter and check continuity of coil wire, check that the inner wire is connected to the wire terminals. double check the wire from neg term on coil to the dist isnt grounding out when it enters the dist. OK rethinking this as I reread it If your getting spark at the coil but not at the dist. its getting lost between the coil output and the cap. also what color spark do you have?
     
  8. chandler

    chandler Member

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    I set another cap and rotor on the dist. pulled the #1 plug as I turned the key over I just bump the key instead of cranking on it yippee :thumbs2:I see fire from the plug. Excited to say the least so I go ahead and crank the motor with the plug out no spark again:cry:. Then I bump the key several times each time a spark I checked the connections and everything appears to be tight.
    The keyed ignition in the column is new also.

    As far as the spark color a brilliant white.

    Thanks to everyone that has put their input into my "problem" needless to say it gets a little flustrating :)
     
  9. ThisFords4U

    ThisFords4U Member

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    So are we running??
     
  10. chandler

    chandler Member

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    No not yet, I don't understand why aas I crank on it to start the motor I have no fire but if I bump the motor it has fire does that make sense?
     
  11. junrai

    junrai Member

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    have you tried hot wiring it yet? I had a problem like this in an old ford truck and there was a wire that lead to my ignition switch that was just BARELY making connection.
    hot wire it and if it starts and runs you can A. keep beeting your head against a wall trying to figure it out or B, you can set up a starter button inside your car directly off of your starter cylinoid (sp?)
    I know its a hoakey way of doing things but it solves alot of headaches just hook it to your dimmer switch and you have a hidden starter switch

    do you know how to hot wire the car?
     
  12. chandler

    chandler Member

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    I was just talking with the guys at work and that is what they suggested to about hot-wiring it that would eliminate the ignition and I could work from there. I will keep you informed as I get more time to piddle with it.

    Thanks
     
  13. mavman1970

    mavman1970 Member

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    This happened to me with my 79 Ford pick up but it had the electronic ignition in it. I was told this is called a hall effect and would only fire when letting go of the key. It never started when cranking but when I released the key it would start right up. I ended up replacing the pick up coil in the distributor. After typing all of this I think I remember you are running the points distributor? Anyone know how this would correlate?
     
  14. bmcdaniel

    bmcdaniel Senile Member

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    I had that happen when I got the two small solenoid wires reversed one time...
    The small solenoid terminal closest to the starter cable feeds the ignition coil during cranking. If the wires are reversed the coil doesn't get any voltage when cranking.
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2012
  15. chandler

    chandler Member

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    Tonight was a good night after looking at everything again I did have to 2 wires crossed on the cylinoid.Butta Boom Butta Bing I finally got to hear it!!!

    Thanks to everyone for their help
     

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