Hi Everyone! It seems like I've written about this some years ago...it's been plaguing me for years, it seems! I have a '71 Mav, 200, no power brakes nor AC, with automatic trans. Last October, I finished a many-months brake and front/rear bearing job. Fearing that I might not have bled it right, I had the car taken to a mechanic to check. He also checked the timing/carb because of a stalling-at-idle issue. Re-bled, and adjusted, the car drove great...as great as those 200's with a Carter YF can be. I guess it was in early January when the stalling resumed. I live in Los Angeles, so it's not a "cold weather" issue...especially now in August! But here's the thing, from a cold start, it runs pretty well for about 3 1/2 minutes, then the stalling begins. I checked the vacuum hoses, even the impossible to get to transmission one--all good. There were two upside-down screws on the carb that were loose, I tightened. All the other carb screws and mounting bolts are tight. Awhile ago, a mechanic discovered that the carb spacer was slightly warped, he machined it smooth. Prior to taking the car to the mechanic last October, I replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter. The wires, cap, and rotor are new enough, having gently scraped carbon off the inside cap metal. I have a PerTronix ignition and coil, only a few years old, probably less than a few hundred miles on it. Also, a few years ago, I pulled the gas tank, had it cleaned, had the level sensor rebuilt, and rented an air compressor to blow out the steel line. After several carb rebuilds, I finally took it to a shop to get done--that thing was DIRTY! Some years ago, I replaced the fuel pump, for the stalling issue at that time, it seemed to help. I have checked the oil for discoloration--blown head gasket symptom--it was fine. This might be a clue: During the 3 1/2 minutes of "normal" running, the engine seems to alternate between a rough idle and smooth. In October, the mechanic told me that the voltage was low coming from the alternator--engine running, no accessories, 14.22; all accessories on, 12.87. I do plan to get a Motorcraft alt, but I'd prefer dealing with the stalling first...unless it's connected. One more thing, I discovered that the o-ring gasket from the exhaust manifold to the pipe is starting to crumble--only a few years old--and that the exhaust pipe is movable a bit. I think when I last tightened it some years ago, I might not have tightened it vary far out of fear of busting the manifold bolts, so the movement of the pipe, might have worn the o-ring. Oh, the mechanic who machined the carb spacer also rebuilt the distributor. I cannot imagine a simpler engine to work on, with very few causes for stalling...after 3 1/2 minutes, so this is extremely frustrating! Here's a photo of the carb with the thermo-spring housing, to see the setting. I took the photo a few years ago, I have no idea why I'm pointing at it!
When it stalls can you re start it? If not you need to find out what's missing. Does it lose spark or fuel? Maybe keep a spark tester in the car to check real quick or a can of carb cleaner you can spray at the carb for a quick test.
Yes, I can restart, but it’s the usual thing of shifting into Drive and instantly stepping on the gas to keep it going. I do know about spraying carb cleaner around the base of the carb to check for vacuum leaks, I’ll only be able to do that for the first 3+ minutes. Speaking of that, since the engine starts to get warm during that time, I’m wondering if something is expanding because of the heat. With the engine cold, I closed the choke a bit more, that seemed to help keep the engine running a bit longer, but when shifting to gear, it stalled and was nearly impossible to restart. Then returning the choke to the setting in the photo, it started fine.
71gold, post: coil getting hot how long in between stalling and restarting? I don’t recall it not restarting pretty much instantly, once on, the engine seems to be chugging.
I just read an article that says a poor alternator may affect the coil, causing stalling. I’m wondering if the alternator, when first starting in the morning, is alright, but as the engine warms up—and the alternator warms up, that the electricity it produces becomes inadequate to keep the coil at full power.
How is the Pertronix wired? If it's the Ignitor I, it's supposed to be powered from original coil feed connection, not a full 12v as the II & III. Wired to 12v will overheat the Pertronix module and/or coil. Did you have the stall problem prior to Pertronix install? The Pertronix should operate fine from a fully charged battery, could toss the alternator in trash can. The fact that engine apparently cranks over OK(charges battery), proves the alternator is doing its job. As far as choke, once engine has run a two or three minutes it should be open, no exception. If engine runs better with it partially closed, either there is restriction in carb(dirt) or maybe a vacuum leak. Vacuum leak usually causes high, ruffish idle. Leak in line to transmission modulator valve will cause late/high shifts. .
When I put in the Pertronix, I couldn’t make timing adjustments—I didn’t have a reliable tachometer, I took the car to a Ford mechanic, he adjusted the timing, it might have been at that time he rebuilt the distributor. So he would’ve made sure all the wires were right. The car ran great after that.
I'm thinking more about if it's stalling out and idling down to die. Spray cleaner in the carb. If it picks up it's a fuel issue. You'd have to have the air cleaner off of coarse.
Hi! I sprayed the cleaner around the base—no difference; sprayed into the opening, the engine stumbled. I also covered it with my hand, died. I think I ruled out a carb issue. At this point, I’m thinking it’s an electric issue. I still wonder if the poor performing alternator has something to do with this…but after 3 1/2 minutes, I don’t know how it would make a difference.
I had the air cleaner off, a flashlight aimed at the carb. The engine was over-night cold. I tapped the pedal, the choke closed with maybe a 1/8th-inch gap. I started it--started right up; it was in high idle, after a moment, I tapped it, it moved to nearly open, engine speed decreased. I tapped again after a moment, wide open; engine at regular idle. It's at that point when I used the carb spray.
It ran a bit rough as it neared 3 1/2 minutes…then out. Would it help if I shot a video? I can put it on YouTube then attach a link here.
