T5 Swap Problem

Discussion in 'Transmissions' started by Ford Guy, Feb 27, 2013.

  1. Ford Guy

    Ford Guy Member

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    I am in the middle of swapping my 3 speed manual for a T5 and I have ran into an issue I need some help with. To start off, I am using a factory 157 tooth 28 oz flywheel and a replacement 10" diaphragm clutch. I am also using a T5 bellhousing and I am setting up a hydraulic clutch.

    I've got the clutch and pressure plate bolted on and am ready to install the bellhousing. But when I started tightening the bolts for the bell I noticed that the clutch fork is forced against the back of the bellhousing. Its kinda hard to explain so I hope y'all can follow what I'm saying. Its almost like I need to shorten the pivot ball for the fork but the factory one isn't adjustable. Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong?
     
  2. Mavman72

    Mavman72 Gone backwards but lookin' forward

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    I had the same issue with my set up...I ditched the clutch fork and pivot ball...I am going with an integral hyd T/B...The pivot ball was contacting my pressure plate (I am useing a Borg&Beck style pressure plate though) Not a diaphragm style. Others have done the swap without issue soo...Hang out, you'll get more responses regarding your issue that may actually help...Good luck!!!
     
  3. Ford Guy

    Ford Guy Member

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    Thanks, so I'm not the only one this has happened to. I'm gonna go ahead and order a shorter, adjustable pivot ball and see if that helps any. I don't know if this clutch is thicker than a T5 clutch or what.
     
  4. 74merc

    74merc computer nerd

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    I've been thinking about going with a stick on mine as well. The clutch held me back.

    What master/slave did you use?
     
  5. fourbrrl

    fourbrrl Member

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    I'd like the answer to that one as well....
     
  6. Ford Guy

    Ford Guy Member

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    Sorry for the late response, I just saw ya'lls replies. I used the slave and master cylinders from a 1990 Nissan 300ZX non turbo. I used these because they were cheap and easy to get from O'Reilly auto parts. If I had to do it over again I would probably use the CNC master cylinder that most everyone else uses. I say this because it was hard to get the Nissan master cylinder turned right so it would clear the brake lines and proportioning valve.
     

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