I am in the middle of swapping my 3 speed manual for a T5 and I have ran into an issue I need some help with. To start off, I am using a factory 157 tooth 28 oz flywheel and a replacement 10" diaphragm clutch. I am also using a T5 bellhousing and I am setting up a hydraulic clutch. I've got the clutch and pressure plate bolted on and am ready to install the bellhousing. But when I started tightening the bolts for the bell I noticed that the clutch fork is forced against the back of the bellhousing. Its kinda hard to explain so I hope y'all can follow what I'm saying. Its almost like I need to shorten the pivot ball for the fork but the factory one isn't adjustable. Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong?
I had the same issue with my set up...I ditched the clutch fork and pivot ball...I am going with an integral hyd T/B...The pivot ball was contacting my pressure plate (I am useing a Borg&Beck style pressure plate though) Not a diaphragm style. Others have done the swap without issue soo...Hang out, you'll get more responses regarding your issue that may actually help...Good luck!!!
Thanks, so I'm not the only one this has happened to. I'm gonna go ahead and order a shorter, adjustable pivot ball and see if that helps any. I don't know if this clutch is thicker than a T5 clutch or what.
I've been thinking about going with a stick on mine as well. The clutch held me back. What master/slave did you use?
Sorry for the late response, I just saw ya'lls replies. I used the slave and master cylinders from a 1990 Nissan 300ZX non turbo. I used these because they were cheap and easy to get from O'Reilly auto parts. If I had to do it over again I would probably use the CNC master cylinder that most everyone else uses. I say this because it was hard to get the Nissan master cylinder turned right so it would clear the brake lines and proportioning valve.
