Awhile back I replaced my lights with LED and an LED flasher ( http://smegnl.medina.oh.us/index.php/maverick/99-led-lights ) All was well, but today I tested my lights cuz I was putting in headlight relays, and I noticed by turn signals AND hazards were not working. I had used two of these https://easyperformance.com/products/universal-flasher-module?_pos=1&_sid=40e3e56f6&_ss=r . I slapped the old metal flasher back in the hazards and they started working, ill be it flashing very fast. I just hate having to refix things. I hope both of the LED flashers have not gone bad on me. As a side note, i did find out that the flashers always have power, which I did not know. Maybe these are just not made to run all the time?
A few years back I decided to go with LED bulbs in my project 52 Ford F1 project. Everything worked fine with standard bulbs. (My turn and flasher is a signal stat model) I put in the LED bulbs and every time I turned the left or right turn signal on both would flash like the Emergency flashers were turned on. I bought more than one “LED rated” flasher but none of them worked. It either didn’t work at all or it made both sides flash like with the stock flasher. I wound up using load resistors online at all 4 LED lights. If you go that route they get hot enough to melt wire coatings so have them away from everything. I melted the plastic spiral wire wrap that got too close while testing everything for a extend period of time 15 to 20 minutes worth.
Over heating resistors are telling you resistor wattage should be higher, or increase resistor value(two in series) so current is less. Yeah there is probably a fine line for optimum operation. Something no one thinks about is using a aux bulb in parallel as ballast(load), I haven't tried but something like a 1003/1004 should be enough(Yeah I'm a anti-LEDer). Of course those bulbs get hot so some precaution is necessary. While flasher may have continual power applied(should be 4 way only), without switch activated there is no current flow.
Ahh, good point on the lack of current due to open circuit. But I was wondering if the +12V in and the digital LED having its own ground, if the ICs are running all the time. In fact I wonder if thats were my very tiny amp draw is coming from that I see.
well I think it def is the flashers. They are supposed to work with LED and reg bulbs. I put it on a bench with a 12V power supply and nope dead as dead. I hooked up the old school flasher just to make sure my wireup worked, and it flashed away.
Yep was the flasher. I spent $25 each on those stupid things. So I went the opposite route and got a PAIR for $14. Everything is working for now. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FM9DZZ6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details Had to make little pig tails for them , as the batt and load were on the wrong side
